Hey folks, well, I just spent the past 2 hours here at work goofing off in the archives section, searching for a place or person that will sell me a 6 link setup, but through all those posts I found when I did a search, I don't see a place where I can buy one. I would like to get away from the Guldstrand 5 link, simply because it's too expensive, and I think it still uses the halfshafts for the suspension. So does anybody know where I can get a trick 6 link setup for my 81? I'd LOVE to get one!

 

Send me your email, I'll send you a guy's name and phone # that
supposedly makes them - got the info after researching that same
link on Corvette FAQs.

I've been doing more research - have found the ball joint rod ends
and female threaded rods (threaded tubes) are available at
McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for around a couple hun $.
Do a search on ball joint ends and look at all the pages - they're available
in a variety of sizes and even in stainless.

I've figured out a way to duplicate the geometry on the FAQ article
that has the pictures (basically the lengths of the upper and lower
strut rods and the mounting locations).

Next spring I'm going to take a shot at fabricating my own.

macxx1@excite.com

 

Guys it is not hard to fabricate a 6 link. The 4 heim joints are available from Summits or coleman and the upper and lower stut rods are also available from Coleman. The strut rods come in every length imaginable for $10-$15 per rod and I could crawl under the car and give you exact lengths.
The hardest part is the rearend must come out to remove the clips, old wore out yokes work fine for this.
An easy way out for the top inner mount is weld a stud unto the crossmember.
Anyone with a welder could do it their self.
For someone who really wants to do it and is not just fishing I would give them all the dimensions and pictures but not before they are actually going to do it.
I have the system and love it. It makes rear toe adjustment and simple deal along with camber changes and it keeps the wheel planted squarely on the ground throughout the suspension travel.
This is one of my trailing arms with the upper 6 link strut attached.

Brutus has alot of pictures of his 6 link and he used alot of stock parts.


[Modified by norvalwilhelm, 8:14 PM 11/5/2003]

 

hey norval, just a thought since i know your up on the other threads going on right now. i'm sure you know i have the c-4 style diff with the aluminum batwing. i bought the smart struts for it but i'm currently just using the rods and not the brackets. what if i were to install the brackets and adjust so the lower strut rod was near horizontal and use the original strut rods for an upper link. i would have to weld in a completely new crossmember behind the differential to mount it but that shouldn't be that big a chore. obviously, i would remove the clips on the yokes and this new design would eliminate the halfshafts as a load (weight) bearing component. would this address some of the issues TT has brought up with relocating the differential? what disadvantage do you see in the upper strut rod being the same length as the lower? no reason i can see where i couldn't have it shortened to whatever length would be optimal and rewelded. with the lower SS rods, the upper shouldn't even need to be adjustable, don't you think?

 

Gary your upper strut should be 13.5" to match the previous upper link, the halfshaft. Just as you have some adjustment on the present lower system you should have the ability to "tune" the upper strut system as well. It will be close with a specific 13.5" but to no advantage not having any adjustments.

My plans are to put a 2x2 tube upper crossmember between the rear frame rails to attach the upper link. It will also strengthen the rear rail area.

With the batwing relocated up it will lower the CG and as Norval says remember to check driveshaft alignment.

Your car is stiff with the front member you added, I was impressed with it when I was in Vegas last year. I would further your frame trussing with a roll cage and probably use the Structural Foam we discussed after welding and gusseting every possibility. Jim

 

Norval,

I'd like the pictures and information. Since I was unable to purchase the 5-link from guldstrand for a '81 unit, I've been thinking about your 6-link setup. The problem I may have is with mounting the link to the aluminum cross member in my car. I'm just getting started on putting the suspension in, so now is the time for me to do it. Is there any area of suspension geometry that the 6-link does not address?

Mark


[Modified by 81vette, 7:24 AM 11/6/2003]

 

Clutchdust I am just comfiming what Pro South just said. You want the upper strut rod adjustable to quickly set camber or toe. I can reset toe with just a simple twist of the upper and lower rods together or just one to set camber.
That 13.5 length is center to center of the upper rod.
The inner mount must line up with the lower rod plus the yoke. It is critical to get the inner mount properly located.
I removed the clips and ground the yokes down to make sure they do not contact the pin.
With the six link installed without the spring i moved the rear wheel through a complete range of travel and the yoke moves in and out of the rearend alot so it is important that the yokes do no hit the pin or binding of the rear suspension could damage parts.
I also put a magnetic protactor on the brake rotor and it maintained the same camber throughout it's total travel.
I will check toe changes next week after the paint dries on my new coil over setup. Before the springs are installed I will use the bump steer gage on the rear to check toe change throughout wheel travel.
I believe in the 6 link and other then a little fabricating/welding can be easily put together for under $100.
The lower strut rod must be parallel to the driveshaft and this can cause and interference with the exhaust system where it passes under the rearend.

 

Is there any area of suspension geometry that the 6-link does not address?

Mark

Mark I don't know. I liked the idea of not having the half shaft as part of the structure. I wanted it to strictly transmit power . I also wanted to get rid of the yoke play comming into it.
The upper and lower strut rods, 5/8th heim joints and the adjustability of the setup appealled to me. Toe/camber changes are effortless. The trailing arms have a good pivot in the front and with the upper and lower strut rods it becomes alot more rigid and no camber change which might not appeal to some.
Coleman sells the strut rods cheap along with heim joints so it just involves fabricating and welding mounts for the rods.
Like I told clutch dust the upper rod is 13.5 center of heim to center of heim with the inner upper mount located in a line with the lower strut rod and a certain spot of the yoke.
I will try to find the article that I made a hard copy of showing testing done on the 6 link.
I have had mine for at least 2 years and have found nothing negative about it and lots positive.
I have installed coil overs so it becomes even more important to stabalize the top of the trailing arm.

 

Yes, the toe control problem is not addressed since the problem is caused by the trailing arm design with one hinge point.

 

OH, this is getting silly, how far behind I am.....not even got the spreader bar in place yet, and allready I need tall spindles, and a 6 link.....

GENE

 

81vette - One of the forum members was using a multi link rear suspension that had the bracket for the upper links bolted to the differantial cover. That may be a viable option for you too.

 

Gene the 6 link has been around for years. It is just being rehash but I am going to start on a spreader bar soon. I want to finish the coil overs and make a sway bar for the rear, it will need to be custom.
I will weld mounts on the front towers and run a bar right close to the water pump.

 

norval, one thing you might want to consider since your custom fabricating your spreader bar. a slight deficiency i've noticed in the VB model is that the bar is primarily located between the two forward a-arm bolts. the rear just kind of locate the brackets. if you have the room, you may want to consider extending the tabs the bar actually bolts to and gusseting them back toward the rear bolt to help spread the load. i don't know if this will actually help but it's just what i was thinking after my shims fell out of the rear bolt at the last track event.

 

I'm suprised I didn't know about 6-links until now. To remove the clips, would the diff need to come out, or merely remove the cover on a '77? Norval, once you get that dig. camera from work, a shot or two of the setup would be great, so I can get a better idea of what I'll need to do. I won't trouble you for numbers just yet.

It seems too good to be true that such a great system can be put together so cheaply.

Edit: Forgot that you mentioned Brutus, who is this? :confused:


[Modified by RUXperienced, 1:42 PM 11/6/2003]

 

While I can't say I've given my suspension mods (home made 6 link and spreader bar) the acid test by trying them out on the track as Gary has, I can say that the 'seat of the pants' feel says they've made an appreciable difference to the way my car handles and feels on the road as well as an overall tightness to the whole car.
Here is the 6 link I made.

and this is the spreader bar bracket where I tried to centralise the bar more for a better spread of load at the mounting points as Gary has alluded to.

 

Thanks for the picture. Is the inside, upper connection made via a stud welded to the crossmember? Was the fore/aft placement of the upper link a matter of convenience, or is it directly above the strut rod?

Also, how much in-out halfshaft movement is there throughout travel?

Thanks :chevy
Chris

 

Check out this link. It has lots of information on the 6 link. http://www.corvettefaq.com/susp.asp

 

Hope this pic might answer your questions a little.