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A friend has bought a supposed 383 second hand and we are tearing it down slowly, but want to know if it's possible to identify the block where it's supposed to have been clearanced for the stroker crank. Scat stroker kit I believe. It has an 8" balancer and the flex plate has had weights added which I presume is a fair indication that it's externally balanced. Just thought I'd ask if there were any other obvious signs.
Thanks.
Bob
the harmonic ballancer for an externally ballanced smallblock is relieved on one half on the outer face. It's easy to spot.
Like this:
courtesy of jegs...
Not all 383 (3.75") cranks are ext balance, most cast are and most forged aren't, I have one for each. The 8" balancer I have has a removable weight so it can be used with either int or ext balanced cranks, I have used it for both. If you are tearing it down I believe if you measure from the main journal center line to a rod journal center line it should be 3.75" but I am not 100% certain. it might be to the outer edge of the rod journal. :confused:
Can't you find out by measuring the distance from the top of the piston ( in the down position ) to the top of the block and it should be 3.75"
That is how I thought you could tell. :chevy
Can't you find out by measuring the distance from the top of the piston ( in the down position ) to the top of the block and it should be 3.75"
That is how I thought you could tell. :chevy
That makes sense too if the eng is in short block form. :thumbs:
Thanks Larry. I knew I could count on you. :rolleyes: :D
As to the other less silly answers....I think we have confirmation. While there are no clearance marks on the sump (sorry, oil pan) rails, I can see where the piston skirts have been ground to clear the rod journals. Measured the piston top at BDC from the top of the block and found 3.75" and last but not least the harmonic balancer is as pictured above. Gentlemen we have a 383! Thank you one and all. I appreciate everyone's help....even the Dodge(y) ones. :jester
I'm supposed to have 383 in my car. I recently dropped the pan because I thought I had a major problem. The block is not clearanced along the pan rail but the rod bolt bosses were machined down for clearance. Is that a shortcut in lieu of clearancing the block? Seems like that would weaken the rod. By the way, I didn't have a major problem but I took the opportunity to install one of those Moroso oil pans with the crank scraper, windage screen and trap door baffle. Also put a Moroso pump and pickup in (standard volume). In case anyone was wondering, STEEROIDS will work with that oil pan.
4 of the rod bolt heads will contact cam lobes when used with a standard base circle cam if a small amount is not ground off them. Not much material is need to be taken off, I'll see if I can find a pic of one. This is for a stock like rod with a 2 peice bolt, most higher hp applications require better rods that will have the bolts just screw into the rod and will stroker clearenced.
Here is a diagram of where the material needs to be removed. One trick read was to put 2 peices of masking tape on the cam lob to simulate the clearence needed.