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His reply was it's "decent" but no where NEAR bulletproof. Now I know there is a hell of a lot stronger parts out there but I didn't think I have a weak bottom end either?? Am I wrong here? :confused:
What do you guys think is "Bulletproof" (and I'm not talking Top Fuel dragster quality parts, no $7,500 cranks).
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
I think bulletproof would be some high end stuff, but not always top fuel. I would want a nice 4 bolt main block with ARP studs to start. The rods and crank would be from some place like Callies or Crower. Pistons from Ross or JE would be on the top. It would be high end, but not to bad. My friend has a 396 stroker made from an LT1 motor in a 94 Camaro is bottom end uses Callies, ARP, JE stuff. I would call that bulletproof. It is strong enought to take what he does reving to 6500+ and still able to handle a 200 shot of Nitrous or NAWZZZ. :rofl:
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
ain't nothin' bulletproof, not even a tank. if you build with good parts ,do it
right, maintain it, your good. could have been hes isn't as nice, hey i ain't got
one ether.....
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Sigforty)
I think bulletproof would be some high end stuff, but not always top fuel. I would want a nice 4 bolt main block with ARP studs to start. The rods and crank would be from some place like Callies or Crower. Pistons from Ross or JE would be on the top. It would be high end, but not to bad. My friend has a 396 stroker made from an LT1 motor in a 94 Camaro is bottom end uses Callies, ARP, JE stuff. I would call that bulletproof. It is strong enought to take what he does reving to 6500+ and still able to handle a 200 shot of Nitrous or NAWZZZ. :rofl:
I hear what you saying but namebrand cranks doesn't automaticly mean better, depends ultimatly on the strength of the forging. At what level does a part become bulletproof I guess is what I'm asking?
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
I think Comp said it all. Anything can be bulletproof if used on a really "lightweight" build. BUT anything can and will probably be destroyed or made useless over time on a really "high-power" build. Just the nature of metals and such...... One of the reason top-fuel cars run thru parts so quickly is they toss seemingly good parts so they can keep right at that maximum realiable limit all the time!
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
I think that is all relative to what you are putting out. If you have stronger stuff then you really need I would say it is more bulletproof. If you plan on putting out about 500 horse and build it with what you have. It would be bulletproof in my mind.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Sigforty)
As stated earlier, the term 'bullet-proof' is relative to what you're 'asking' the motor to do.
What is 'bullet-proof' for a pump-gas, 13-second motor wouldn't pass for the bottom-end in the tow-vehicle of a 10-second car.
A buddy, who builds all types of racing engines (9:1 'spec'-motors to 600" blown/injected 'Top-Dragster' engines) is of the opinion that using 2-bolt blocks, them adding 'splayed' outer bolts & caps, is THE single best modification he insists on his engines.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
The expression bullet proof IMO does exist. If you run 300 hp in a small block with all forged internal, I think it's bullet proof. What kind of hp do you get from your combo. IMO, 500 hp and under would be really safe for your parts. It sure can take more too. :D
BTW, I think you build your engine right. Why spend skyrocket when you can achieve the same reliability with less.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (American Boy)
The expression bullet proof IMO does exist. If you run 300 hp in a small block with all forged internal, I think it's bullet proof. What kind of hp do you get from your combo. IMO, 500 hp and under would be safe enough for your parts. It sure can take more too. :D
BTW, I think you build your engine right. Why spend skyrocket when you can achieve the same reliability with less.
Stephan
Haven't dynoed it yet but it should be around 500hp+/-.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
Haven't dynoed it yet but it should be around 500hp+/-.
I'm 'guessing' you'll be A-OK; looks like an LS-6 style bottom end you've got. They were good to 450+ HP in 'stock' form; with 30+ years of camshaft/cylinder-head technology (AND the care shown during this 'custom' assembly), the addition 50 HP shouldn't be too hard to get, OR too hard on the bottom-end, either.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
More bullet proof is higher grades of steel forged parts. I never leave home without 4340 crank and rods. Larger main caps and ARP studs. TRW forged pistons are not bad, but sure aren't in the full floating piston league that cost 3X as much. Personnally I wouldn't run any kind of stock rod.
The big H beam bushed rods can be used over and over again.
This is my real take on the whole situation.
Two guys build 454 ci motors. They both make something slightly over 500 hp. Builder #1 spent $3000 bucks on his rebuild and builder number #2 spent $10,000 with new oval port aluminum heads and the best forged parts with lots of chrome.
Three years later they are both running strong. Tell me which motor is the best one! ;)
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (gkull)
George,
"if' it`s used to it`s full potential the one with massaged "stock" parts will not live as long as the one with the 4340 (lightened crank), billet rods and lightweight forged pistons (I like J&E). A shaft rocker setup is getting to be the "norm" these days also.
...redvetracr
PS: forget the used up "street car" block too if you want to make serious power and get longevity you need a CNC GM race block or a Dart "M".
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (redvetracr)
If it's not put together properly anything will blow up, for the street under 600HP a good brand name 4340 crank and H beam 4340 rods along with good forged pistons matching rings and the orrect bearings, assembled properly should be as close to bullet proof as you can get, at least that's what I'm banking on. :D
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (MotorHead)
I ran that same bottom end for 2 1/2 years in my bracket car spraying it with 275 NOS and it still looks good. I finally burnt a piston and am going back to stock Ls-6 specks but am going to re-use the bearings as they look like new still. This engine made right at 750hp on motor. As far as expensive parts go the 706 in the outlaw pro-mod I help pit crew on has been apart five times this season. We have broke rods, burnt pistons, spun the mains,put a crank in it. It is a 30,000 Donavon with the best of parts in it,with three stages of NOS makes about 2,000hp. I like to say you can tear up a steel ball in a sandbox with a rubber hammer if you try hard enough. As far as your combo. goes I think it will live far past the power you want from it.
Re: What do you consider a "Bulletproof" bottom end? (Corey 68)
I would add "dowelled" steel maincaps such as Bowtie Racing caps and a premium block with some more meat in it.....if all the set up is done properly and the machining is well done you shd have no problemsIMO.....john :chevy