Craig and FeedVaal,
I do have a battery disconnect (rotary type) so perhaps parasitic drain is not really an issue. I have ordered a glovebox repro liner to scope out this job during the winter (my car is in commercial storage) but with Forum Members' help I believe I now know exactly what has to be done come spring. Thanks!

 

HEY HEY! FInally, something I know a lot about! Your amp should have a negative, power, and switched lead. Hook the power directly to the battery through a fuse. You can buy a connector to hook to your positive battery cable and then route a large gauge wire to your amp. :smash: Hook the negative lead to a very, very good ground. :conehead Hook the switched lead (usually yellow or blue) to the power antenna lead on your radio (usually blue or yellow). The power lead to your amp will always have power, but your amp will not be powered until you turn on your radio (the switched lead carries very small current - it's not powering anything, only switching a relay on and off for the main power lead). Kenwood amps are very good about not overheating - even at full current draw. As long as the amp is not in a totally enclosed, very confined space, you will not have problems with heat. You will not need a fan - only some breathing room. Sorry to tell you this, but the speakers in that enclosure are trash. The enclosure is good, but you need some decent speakers. You can pick up brand name stuff on Ebay for dirt cheap. The method pf turning your radio up until the speakers clip and then turning down a little, then turning up your amp till they clip again and backing off is correct. This will insure that your amp will not blow your speakers. 250W (125/channel) is a lot for a little interior like a Vette... you need good speakers to make use of that power. Good luck! :flag

 

Thank you for that reply. I have the wiring sorted out now. On the heat issue I may have to abandon the glovebox location although a C2 glovebox is quite large. The rear speakers are another matter: the metal enclosures are welded shut. In other words you cannot get at the speakers. And I hate to abandon them as I like the appearance and they are a "press" fit in the carpetting. So no screws are needed. Just about every mod I make allows me to go back to original in less than one day. And the stereo is no exception. I could remove the speakers and Custom Autosound head unit, pop in the 1967 radio and be back to original in less than two hours.

In lieu of the amp, I have considered having the 1967 radio outfitted with new electronics but the restoration company only offers 22W per channel; and that is for two channels. I need four so that is not adequate. I have also considered contacting Custom Autosound to see if they have some form of upgrade power package but I have not to date. I still may do so. So I am back to that amp to drive marginal rear speakers. And it may do the trick for the volume levels I use. I have all winter to think this through so I have time to get it right, at least on paper.