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I hate these torx screws on the Ujoint straps :mad
I've got 13 out, but the last three won't budge. Of course, these are the ones on the
yokes!!
I've been using a 5/16" 12point socket. The torx E-10 was too big to grip the screw...
Now that they are a little more round, what else can I use? I'm thinking of a needle nose
vice grips, but I don't like doing that.
Anyone know the size of these screws? Someone replaced 2 screws with 1/4" allen head
screws. That is an improvement!
Re: Ujoint strap screw is being difficult - options? (adam)
I replaced all these on my '80 4spd I used to have with twelve pt head bolts, just don't remember the size. I took one of the "originals" to a bolt specialty shop, and they came up with a perfect 12 pt replacement. Once those E-10 bolt heads start "corroding" away, it leaves very little surface area for the socket to grip to. I heated most of mine up with a torch cherry red and they came out like they were in finger tight. These are going to be a real problem for other owners too as these cars get older & older and more need done. If you do find a nice replacement bolt like I did, they'll never be a pain in the *** to you again should you have to take them apart again.
Re: Ujoint strap screw is being difficult - options? (adam)
I hope someone else pipes up about htis too as Im going to be doing these this spring. Is there such as socket even avaialble for these?
Also whatever you do, dont go near the bolts with a needlenose vise grips. Youll Foook them up real good. The needle nose isnt strong enough to grip and youll end up doing more damage to the head than turning of the bolt.
Re: Ujoint strap screw is being difficult - options? (comp)
Adam
About 7 - 8 months ago I went and ordered new bolts for all the 80-82 auto & manual cars. They are not 12 or 6 point any more. GM discontinued those, so you won't have to worry about them anymore. You can replace them w/a hex head bolt. I do have some originals in also.
Re: Ujoint strap screw is being difficult - options? (adam)
I would say take a 12 point wrench and bevel it to fit up against the strap. That is the only way to get it close enough. I beveled min to almost the edge of the hole on the bottom and pretty much left the top edge where it wa. Confusing to explain ...simple to do on a beltsander. After getting it to fit well I would tap it down with a small hammer and say your prayers while carefully pressuring without changing the plane of rotation. WD40 in advance but clean that crap off with acetone and use bolt adhesive when they go back. I had one come apart not long ago and had to replace half shaft and wheel yoke. What year are you? My 80 was a real pain because the main shaft rear joint is concealed above an immobile and substantial mounting flange. I would use a piece of pipe or PVC over the small wrench like a breaker bar ...even if it is 6" it will be easier.