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Hope to start putting the lower half together after Xmas and have some general questions.
1 Where do you get plastiguage?
2 What assemnly lube do you guys recommend and where to buy?
3 Rear 2 pc seal how do you recommend it be installed. I saw on DCG when they were putting together the L-88 that they actually rotated the seal so that the parting lines were not in the same location as where the cal and block join. Looks like a good idea what do you guys do? if you do rotate the seal do you still use some sort of sealent?
4. What is the best sealent to use?
5 I saw in an interview with Kenny Berstein during last years NHRA season that his team soaks thier bearings in Dura Lube for a day or so to impregnate the metal. Is this worth while or a sponsor getting in a plug on TV?
6 Anything that you do to the rings to help them seal faster?
7 Soak the pistons in oil for a while.
I have done the rear main seal trick of rotating it slightly. It seems to work. I put a dab of sealant on the ends before I put them in. Just a small dab though. As far as ring sealing my engine builder taught me a trick. He said the cleaner you get teh walls the quicker the rings seal. Before putting the pistons in Clean the bores with Automatic trans fluid. The fluid is designed to suspend dirt in it and is a great cleaner to remove the bore/hone residue left by machining. I was surprised by the amount of grit left in after a thorough wash job. Take a clean paper towel and put some trans fluid and wipe the bore. Keep taking a clean towel after a few swipes and do it until the paper towel shows no sign of residue left. After doing this and starting mine up the rings sealed immediatly. I also used moly rings which help sealing.
Perfect Circle Plasticgauge (green) can be purchased at NAPA. There are many asssembly lubes out there. You can also mix 50/50 stp with oil for bearing installation. Oil on the rings only. As far as the rear seal, I would stick with the original design. GM puts a light coat of sealer on the inside of the seal where it mates to the block to prevent seepage and on the surface where the cap and block come together at the seal ends. Not silicone here, use Permitex aviation Brown sealer. Make sure that the piston pins have been oiled this is overlooked sometime. Soaking is okay but messy. Rings should seat as long as the proper cylinder wall finish was used. don't let it idle to long when it is first started. Most important is prime the oil system before you start it. I"m sure there will be more help from others here. Good luck with your project.
From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Re: Engine assembly general questions. (BlackRat)
Buy some 3/8 vacuum hose to use on the rod bolts--protects the cylinder wall during piston installation. Cut into 8 inch lengths.(you only need two) Sure beats those expensive ones in the catalogs.
Re: Engine assembly general questions. (1970 Stingray)
Use the plastic tool taht comes with the rear seals to get it in, if you don't you'll scrape the sealer of the back and you'll get leaks. I've used both the standard and offset parting line installation method and never had leaks
Re: Engine assembly general questions. (Twin_Turbo)
Thanks for the info and advice guys. Is there a special brand of rear seal that I should purchase or stay away from? Can I buy from NAPA, AutoZone, Advance etc? I will just be doing the bottom end for now. Can't afford the heads yet. :cry After Xmas I will have everything I need except the rear seal so I don't want to have to order it if I can buy it locally.
Put a piece of plasticene on your oil pump pickup. Then put your oil pan on temporarily. Measure the thickness of the plasticene to make sure your oil pump pickup is the correct distance from the bottom of the oil pan.
Don't forget booties on your rod threads so you don't scratch your crankshaft when you put your pistons in.