Im not too knowledgable on steering "stuff" so i'll explain as best I can.

Ok....you know the arm that connects to the cylinder thing that has tubes coming off of it for the power steering? well it seems loose. It has a lock nut on it with a carter key ( castle nut?...) anyways, when you turn the steering wheel that arm can shift in its hole ( or slot- whichever it is) about a quarter inch or so BEFORE the wheels start turning. Doesnt seem like it should do that. Should I tighten the nut on top? Thar arm , which I think is the pitman arm, is the first direct contact from the steering wheel to the power steeering control cylinder....thing..

Im I making sense?

anyway....what gives?....is that normal or can I tighten it? is it a must replace situation?

 

It's called a PS control valve and it sounds like it's bad. You can get rebuilt ones for about $80 but I heard many had problems with them, so you may be better off rebuilding yours for about $30.
Gary

 

Ok....you know the arm that connects to the cylinder thing that has tubes coming off of it for the power steering?

==> power steering control valve or adapter

well it seems loose.

==> typical... always seems to need servicing.

It has a lock nut on it with a carter key ( castle nut?...)

==> castle nut/cotter pin

anyways, when you turn the steering wheel that arm can shift in its hole ( or slot- whichever it is)

==> both... the "ball stud" stud mounts in a hole in the pitman arm, the ball-stud ball mounts in a sliding "slot" (sort of) in the valve.

about a quarter inch or so BEFORE the wheels start turning. Doesnt seem like it should do that.

==> The adjustment is internal.... you must remove & disassemble & rebuild the valve to make the adjustment. The adjustment under the cap at the end does not adjust the slop in the ball stud.

Should I tighten the nut on top?

==> Unless the stud is actually loose in the pitman arm, tightening the castle nut will have no affect.

Thar arm , which I think is the pitman arm, is the first direct contact from the steering wheel to the power steeering control cylinder....thing..

==> Pitman arm... A pitman arm puller is required to remove the stud from the pitman arm.... don't use Bubba's pickle fork... you'll damage the steering box.

Rebuild yours or buy new... the internal parts wear.... professionally rebuilt units do not have new internal wear parts (they're not available/not serviceable) and tend to fail quickly, many times right out of the box.

 

i just got a new ps valve from van steel a few months back,
it had quite a bit of play out the box so i presume they need some,
does anyone know how much movement is acceptable for this part,
neil

 

[QUOTE]Im not too knowledgable on steering "stuff" so i'll explain as best I can.

Ok....you know the arm that connects to the cylinder thing[QUOTE]

Stop right there and take it to a professional.

:D

 

I had a similar problem a few months ago.

The pitman arm is pressed onto the stud when the nut is tightened. There should be no play between the stud and the pitman arm. If you can tighten the stud and pull it more into the pitman arm and it solves the problem, then you should be OK. But it makes you wonder how the nut got loose with the cotter key in place on the castle nut. But, either the stud is worn or the pitman arm hole has gotten enlarged somehow.

I replaced my ps control valve, pitman arm and idler arm (similar to the pitman arm but on the passenger side).

 

i just got a new ps valve from van steel a few months back,
it had quite a bit of play out the box so i presume they need some,
does anyone know how much movement is acceptable for this part,
neil

The ball is set inside of 2 half-sockets. The half-sockets are spring loaded by a spiral spring in the end of the valve. I tighten the internal adjustment "nut" (insert) until the ball has zero endplay and the spring is just slightly compressed. The spring has virtually no compressability.... so this is a narrow window of adjustment

When the pitman arm moves, it pushes the ball-stud assembly which pushes on the hydraulic valve which determines the path of the pressurized PS fluid... and this determines the direction of hydraulic assist provided by the slave cylinder.

So.... some ball-stud movement is necessary just to activate the internal hydraulic valve.
I have "rebuilt" many PS valves.... but never bothered to measure exactly how much ball-stud movement is necessary to move the hydraulic valve far enough to activate the required hydraulic passages. The valve is not an all-on/all-off mechanism... the ports are uncovered gradually as the internal piston slides across.

 

just to let you know your not the only one... i have the same problem. the you turn the steering wheel and the pitman arm and shaft will move about 1/4" before the entire assemble starts to move. but when driving 70 it feels like a lot more in the steering wheel itself. what i am wondering is how do i remove the power steering control valve to fix it, and should i rebuild my-self or buy a new one?


[Modified by ykp53, 4:40 PM 12/16/2003]

 

well, i decided to try adjusting the locknut and screw on the steering box itself last night,
i screwed it in about 3 quarters of a turn,
most of the play has gone but the steering feels a little stiffer not much,
does this mean i've gone too far???should i back it off a touch???
thanks,
neil

 

If you are careful, the steering gear can be adjusted while it is still in your car. I have written a paper on how to do it that is available at:
http://www.corvettefaq.com

Download from the Steering section:

Manual Gear Adjustment - (in vehicle)

Manual Gear Adjust Pic #1

Manual Gear Adjust Pic #2

 

Thanks! I think Its my worm bearing that needs adjusting, going by your paper and what happening with the car. I'll try that tonight and post results...unless I do it wrong and steer the car off a cliff.....that'd be bad. :eek: