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Well I got a couple... maybe they are stoopid but I just need some input.
Where should it read while the car is running with full charge from the alt... about 14-15 right? Which in my mind is just a small sliver on the right from center...
How is this gauge hooked up, just a simple circuit between the alt hot and any ground right?
A VOLTMETER goes across any voltage source in this case across the battery or alternator....a current/amp meter goes in SERIES with any drain...power using device....the ampmeters in our stock sharks do neither, they are a woosey sort of 'gauge' supposed to look like something, I guess, but in fact can't indicate anyting...they are useless in a practical as well as theoretical sense...because they go from the power output distribution point..meaning the stud on the horn relay, to the 'amp meter' then back to the alternator sense wire....meaning the meter does not ever actually measure any current load in the main power circuit, just some interpretational input to the regulator which more or less is accurate...thing is...the entire voltage circuit can be in a very serious decline and you notice nearly nothing or absolutely nothing in the amp meter positiion....so MY vote is that it's useless....bad engineering exectution....classic example of something getting institutionalized and it taking an act of GOD,,....like an entire revamping of the car....witness the 77-78 production..to get RID of the damn ampmeter and go to the more accurate/useful VOLTMETER.....
Well, first off the ampmeter you would want to use is no where near even close to a stock unit...so the install would be in series with the main take off wire from the battery stud of the starter motor, thick red wire...to the main wiring harness.....that way the starter current is never actually passed through the meter, it would burn up immediately, and of course if it COULD carry the current any deflection caused by a lo voltage condition would be so minute that you could not notice it...sorta like a stock unit, come to think of it.....
I am hearing you... still just a little :confused: .
I would think its gotta be worth something other than being able to say you have one more instrument gauge in the center cluster? Although to be honest I think mine is working but it is useless as **** on a bull.
Mrvette: I was under the impression that all current in the corvette did flow through the horn relay? Or are you just saying that the meter is not hooked up in series? I dont have any diagrams here with me so i cant really look. Either way if the ammeter is hooked up correctley in series as its meant to be they are verry usefull to have. Instead of reading just the state of charge of the battery you can see at any given moment if your battery is being charged, discharged, or remaining constant. This way you can tell there is a problem before your battery looses its charge.
Spook: when the car is first started your ammeter should read to the positive side momentarialy showing that it is charging. After it has recovered the battery from starting the car your meter should settle back to the center of the guage. Showing that your car is neither charging or discharging. Once the car is running you dont actually use battery power at all. All of electrical systems are supplied current from the alternator while the battery just acts as a "shock absorber" to keep the voltage supply steady.
I have a question about my ammeter. It seems to show the total current load in the car. When the engine is running and I have the lights on, the gauge shows about a 15 amp discharge rate. The system voltage is 13.5-14 volts and all lights are good and bright. If I turn on the blower, the discharge read even higher (-25), but I still have good voltage.
When the engine is first started, the guage shows a charge as the alternator works to charge up the battery after cranking. Then the gauge gradually falls back toward the negative side.
A while back I had the electrical system tested where I work and was told that the battery was no good. One year later, same battery, and it still acts the same way. The car always starts and runs perfectly.
I don't know much about how the ammeter works and am kind of clueless to diagnose it.
Any thoughts??