replacing rear spring...any suggestions?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: replacing rear spring...any suggestions? (JoeC427)
You can have mine, it's a 7 leaf brand new with 600 miles on it, and my 427 squats it to the ground (meaning the exhaust hits when you load up the converter) so I can't use it.
thanx!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,411
Likes: 1
From: Okeechobee Florida
Re: replacing rear spring...any suggestions? (TCracingCA)
direct answer to question.
The three metal springs generally used are the "9 leaf" has large arch soft for street driving (stock), 7 leaf medium arch for that middle category (F41), alot of people sell both of these and lastly the "5 leaf" hardly no arch at all for race, these generally have a shorter bottom leaf which helps if you are running more rim/tire offset to the inner side. Get the longer spring bolt kits from Guldstrand engineering so you can set the height where you want it. Move up to the 3" halfshafts Zip has best price and I would change the yokes because they wear and cause unwanted movement and go with adjustable camber strut bars from Vette Brakes, and you don't need the smart struts. When you are all done the halfshafts should not be at a ridiculous angle. Heavier suspension they can be practically parallel to the ground. The softer the suspension you have more angle because as you accelerate and the suspension settles compresses, then the halfshafts should be parallel at acceleration so you don't throw a u-joint. I hate the lube type u-joints and prefer solid ones but I will get under the car and service them (repack). Hope this helps. Regarding metal spring vs composite, metal naturally has the characteristics that match the setup that you have been using (shocks). If you know how to reshock the car so they work with these springs and are interested in lighter weight quicker smoother action then composite but you can get 1g handling using the metal ones. The composites it is harder to get 1g if you don't know what you are doing but when you get it right, it can give a faster smoother suspension response. Remember the metal tries to return to the orginal shape so non adjustable shocks or single adjustable and the composite/fiberglass goes boiing boiing in both directions so I would recommend a double adjustable shock. Stock spring 9 leaf use a stock hd shock, F41 go with a bilstein, 5 leaf use the adjustable Koni's shocks. Composite/fiberglass a good quality double adjustable (both rebound and compression) Bye!
[Modified by TCracingCA, 1:09 PM 12/27/2003]
The three metal springs generally used are the "9 leaf" has large arch soft for street driving (stock), 7 leaf medium arch for that middle category (F41), alot of people sell both of these and lastly the "5 leaf" hardly no arch at all for race, these generally have a shorter bottom leaf which helps if you are running more rim/tire offset to the inner side. Get the longer spring bolt kits from Guldstrand engineering so you can set the height where you want it. Move up to the 3" halfshafts Zip has best price and I would change the yokes because they wear and cause unwanted movement and go with adjustable camber strut bars from Vette Brakes, and you don't need the smart struts. When you are all done the halfshafts should not be at a ridiculous angle. Heavier suspension they can be practically parallel to the ground. The softer the suspension you have more angle because as you accelerate and the suspension settles compresses, then the halfshafts should be parallel at acceleration so you don't throw a u-joint. I hate the lube type u-joints and prefer solid ones but I will get under the car and service them (repack). Hope this helps. Regarding metal spring vs composite, metal naturally has the characteristics that match the setup that you have been using (shocks). If you know how to reshock the car so they work with these springs and are interested in lighter weight quicker smoother action then composite but you can get 1g handling using the metal ones. The composites it is harder to get 1g if you don't know what you are doing but when you get it right, it can give a faster smoother suspension response. Remember the metal tries to return to the orginal shape so non adjustable shocks or single adjustable and the composite/fiberglass goes boiing boiing in both directions so I would recommend a double adjustable shock. Stock spring 9 leaf use a stock hd shock, F41 go with a bilstein, 5 leaf use the adjustable Koni's shocks. Composite/fiberglass a good quality double adjustable (both rebound and compression) Bye!
[Modified by TCracingCA, 1:09 PM 12/27/2003]
also mine has the Gymkhana Suspension...
is that 9 leaf or 7?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,607
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville,Tn,USA TN
Re: replacing rear spring...any suggestions? (SIGNGUY)
I put in a VBP performance plus suspension in mine. The dual mount rear composite spring works pretty good in mine.
I have not had a chance to play with it yet, but I am going too. :yesnod: Click on the pic for a better view.. I can promise you I have put it through the mill as of late from tire smoking hard launches and throwing it around in S turns and 180's. I have set it on the second softest setting which is fine with me. Now I need to get a 4 wheel alignment and see what this beast will really do.:D I have rebuilt or replaced everything under the body and stroked the motor also to 388ci so I am putting plenty of torque to the spring.
>>>You have a awesome looking vette by the way>>>
Neil in Tenn
[Modified by Nomad78SA, 5:13 PM 12/27/2003]
I have not had a chance to play with it yet, but I am going too. :yesnod: Click on the pic for a better view.. I can promise you I have put it through the mill as of late from tire smoking hard launches and throwing it around in S turns and 180's. I have set it on the second softest setting which is fine with me. Now I need to get a 4 wheel alignment and see what this beast will really do.:D I have rebuilt or replaced everything under the body and stroked the motor also to 388ci so I am putting plenty of torque to the spring.
>>>You have a awesome looking vette by the way>>>
Neil in Tenn
[Modified by Nomad78SA, 5:13 PM 12/27/2003]
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 38,348
Likes: 2,076
From: California
Re: replacing rear spring...any suggestions? (SIGNGUY)
Your suspension is more than likely the 7 leaf and larger front sway (F41) basically. You probably have the 460lb springs in the front maybe the 550lb. are usually the items referred to as the Gymkhana suspension mods that people do. Maybe a Rear sway bar?
Ps. My recommendation on the 3" halfshafts. If you need the new yokes, get the later model type with the caps. They seat the u-joint better unlike with a u-bolt that could get crooked when tightening down. When I had u-bolts I would measure the threads on both sides to ensure I had tightened them down equally. This and excessive suspension (halfshaft) angularity are the two items that cause the u-joint to go most of the time.
Ps. My recommendation on the 3" halfshafts. If you need the new yokes, get the later model type with the caps. They seat the u-joint better unlike with a u-bolt that could get crooked when tightening down. When I had u-bolts I would measure the threads on both sides to ensure I had tightened them down equally. This and excessive suspension (halfshaft) angularity are the two items that cause the u-joint to go most of the time.
