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Just done all the hose work on my car,so have never had the vacuum system working before.Is it normal for one headlight door to come up slower than the other,& go down slower than the other one.
I "wired" the hoses so that both were operated by one relay,but that just seemed to make matters worse.
Appreciate some input on this,Thanks Neil.
My '76 does this, especially when the car has not had a chance to warm up. Even when otally warm, the drivers side light is faster to open than the other.
If you find a solution, let me know and I will try it.
I too have this same issue w/my 75. I haven't tried it yet but I read somewhere that if you keep both sets of vacuum hoses the same length, thus creating the same "volume" of space, that the two lights should come up at the same time. In theory this makes sense, but I dont know if it actually works. However I will be trying this in the spring when the car comes out of winter storage.
Of course this would work only if all other components are in good working order.
Hope this helps. Would appreciate any feedback on this if any of you try it.
My '76 does this, especially when the car has not had a chance to warm up. Even when otally warm, the drivers side light is faster to open than the other.
If you find a solution, let me know and I will try it.
Thanks for all the replies,I'll test the actuators & check out the difference in hose length as well,glad I'm not the only one with this problem. :yesnod:
........I don't think the hose length has anything to do with it......if there's a leak in the system, then it doesn't matter if the hose is 1" or 5 feet.......the amount of vacuum should be equal throughout the system......
I had the same problem with mine, replaced all the hoses, now it works like brand new........of course it wasn't an instant success......a pinched hose at the headlight switch when I replaced the dash made it a challenge until I routed the hose correctly.......initially, I had a bad signal hose (small white), which made the headlights open one after another and sluggishly......but in reality it could have been any part in the system.......
Instead of combining the two headlights, it would be better to isolate them and work with one headlight subsystem at a time.......you can also bypass the vacuum reservoir and deal with it separately........
just remember.......you should be pulling the same amount of vacuum through each component and hose in the system and you must check these methodically.......Hope this helps...... :cheers:
Is it normal for one headlight door to come up slower than the other,& go down slower than the other one.
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I kind of like them moving at slightly different speeds, it really kind of catches some peoples attention to something else that makes these old corvettes different than todays newer always perfect no personality cars.
;)
Is it normal for one headlight door to come up slower than the other,& go down slower than the other one.
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I kind of like them moving at slightly different speeds, it really kind of catches some peoples attention to something else that makes these old corvettes different than todays newer always perfect no personality cars.
;)
I think that more times than not they open at different speeds. I have noticed that the more I use mine they operate much better. If I don't drive the vette for awhile they seem to be sluggish.
My '80 headlights pop up quick and at the same time. I do not believe the tube theory is correct. I would bet on actuators being tired. Of course I have not had any problems with mine yet but from all I have gleaned fom conversations from folks smarter than I, this is what I recall hearing.
I ended up changing the boots on both of the vacuam accuators and replacing one of the relays before mine worked ok on my '78. Another trick you might want to try is to enlarge the hole of the inlet fitting on the vacuam cannister,( the long cylindrical cannister underneath the headlights). This fitting is connected to the intake manifold and is located on the top side of the cannister close to underneath the drivers side light. A guy who has been working on Vettes for many years told me of this trick, I tried it and it did help but the boots were just too far gone so they had to be replaced. The rubber boots are only about 10 bucks each and well worth it. The lights still don't come up at exactly the same time every time but neither do some other things. :sad:
I ended up changing the boots on both of the vacuam accuators and replacing one of the relays before mine worked ok on my '78. Another trick you might want to try is to enlarge the hole of the inlet fitting on the vacuam cannister,( the long cylindrical cannister underneath the headlights). This fitting is connected to the intake manifold and is located on the top side of the cannister close to underneath the drivers side light. A guy who has been working on Vettes for many years told me of this trick, I tried it and it did help but the boots were just too far gone so they had to be replaced. The rubber boots are only about 10 bucks each and well worth it. The lights still don't come up at exactly the same time every time but neither do some other things. :sad:
I have checked both the relays,no leaks there.I also replaced both the actuator seals & boots.Only thing left is the diaphragms in the actuator cans,maybe one of them is leaking.
Can't see how making the inlet hole in the vacuum tank bigger would help in bringing up the light lids at the same time
The relays wear out internally... and there is a vacuum loss internally. This causes them to operate at different rates.
The best fix I have fouind is to disassemble the relays and cut a groove in the piston where an o-ring can be fitted. Re-assemble with a non-petroleum based grease and they work even and better than new.
New relays seldom have the same reaction time. Rebuilt o-ringed relays tend to operate faster and at a more constant rate.
The job is a little tricky because you have to cut the relay with a dremel to get it apart, and, you have to have a surgeons touch to avoid ruining the piston when you cut the groove in it. Not many people have the ambition/skill/patience to do this job, but when done correctly, it works great.
I had the same problem on my 76. during inspection i found both actuator
seals were bad so i replaced them. This didnt help much except made the left a lot faster. I then swapped the hoses from the rt. relay to the lft. relay
and the problem folled to the drivers side. Replaced the pass. side relay and problem was solved. They dont exactly open at the same time but close.
My eyes in the morning are the same way one drags behind the other till i get my coffee.