TRAILING ARM REMOVAL?
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 57
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From: Aberdeen NC
TRAILING ARM REMOVAL?
IF THE BOLT WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE BUSHING TO REMOVE THE ARM WHAT SHOULD I DO? I'VE SOAKED IT WITH PB BLAST AND TAPPED ON THE BOLT AND STILL NOTHING. I NEED SUGGESTIONS IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY.
THANKS'
LEE
THANKS'
LEE
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Hershey Pa
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? ('75sting)
I just completed this job last weekend, I sprayed the shims with Liquid Wrench til they could move. Took them out then used a sawsall, but you have to use a slow speed to cut. The bolts are hardened and will smoke the blade very quickly.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 1
From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? ('75sting)
I just removed my trailing arm bolts and was very lucky that they both pushed out (make sure the trailing arms are suppoted). I was prepared to make a coupling that I could thread on to the TA bolt threads and make a rod that has a bend that could clear the fender opening. Then I was going to use an air hammer. I think this might work but it would suck to do all this and still have to cut them out. Cutting them was described to me as the "worst job you can do on a C3". Kroil is the best. I would soak everything repeatedly.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 1
From: Boxford Mass
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (BBShark)
The options I have heard for trailing arm removel include...
Option 1 -- Sawsall with bimetal blades
Option 2 -- Cutting Torch
Option 3 -- With shims in, drill an increasingly larger hole thru the bolt
Option 1 -- Sawsall with bimetal blades
Option 2 -- Cutting Torch
Option 3 -- With shims in, drill an increasingly larger hole thru the bolt
Racer
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Denver Colorado
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (Jack71)
I also have this job coming up sometime soon. I haven't heard anyone mention the cutting torch method here on the forum, until your post Jack71, but, assuming you can get the shims out of the way, it sure seems like the cutting torch would be the way to go, if, of course, you can keep the heat away from the fiberglass. I haven't looked that closely yet, but seems like it would be fairly easy.
Anyone have direct experience with the cutting torch method?
Anyone have direct experience with the cutting torch method?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 1
From: Boxford Mass
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (Bill Oxley)
Best if you can remove the shims (slotted style). Heat can be a concern near the fiberglass but many folks did it without harm to the body.
One guy actually posted pictures of the puddled metal on his driveway along with the melted bolts a few years ago. He really enjoyed it I guess.
One guy actually posted pictures of the puddled metal on his driveway along with the melted bolts a few years ago. He really enjoyed it I guess.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,305
Likes: 5
From: Orlando,Fl,USA
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (Jack71)
It was pure hell to say the least. I couldn't get anything out after a week of spraying. The shims were slotted & still rusted in. I had to cut through the shims & the bolt on the outer side and than was able to get enough movment to pull the shims out with vicegrips from the inner side. Cutting the bolt only was easy compared to the shim/bolt cut. I went through 15 sawsall blades on one side. So you are looking at 4 possible cuts for both sides. fiigure 2-3 hours of cutting for a situation like I had. I replaced mine with stainless & urethane. The next guy will have a easier time. :banghead:
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
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From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (dogboy)
Should have just hit the shims with a welding hammer. The rust would have eventually given out. Kano Kroil is god btw. I will never work on another vehicle without it....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,097
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From: Olive Branch MS
St. Jude Contributor
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (88'Cubka)
It was pure hell to say the least. I couldn't get anything out after a week of spraying. The shims were slotted & still rusted in. I had to cut through the shims & the bolt on the outer side
:iagree:
Millwalkee (however it is spelled) Torch Blades are the BEST! :banghead:
:iagree:
Millwalkee (however it is spelled) Torch Blades are the BEST! :banghead:
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 690
Likes: 1
From: near Memphis TN
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (brooksman9)
I just did this chore. I sprayed everything down good then pryed the shims up and down with a screwdriver and hammer until they where relatively loose, then slowly and with some difficulty pryed the shims out. That was the toughest part.
The bolts will be rusted into the bushing sleeves most of the time. My driver's side bolt would not budge at all, my passenger side slid part of the way out but I couldn't get anything to push it all the way out and I could not get any leverage to pull it out. I used a reciprocating saw (aka "sawzall") to cut the bolts. I bought a 5-pack of 9" bi-metal blades but only used one blade to cut both sides.
Avoid a headache, just cut them bolts off.
The bolts will be rusted into the bushing sleeves most of the time. My driver's side bolt would not budge at all, my passenger side slid part of the way out but I couldn't get anything to push it all the way out and I could not get any leverage to pull it out. I used a reciprocating saw (aka "sawzall") to cut the bolts. I bought a 5-pack of 9" bi-metal blades but only used one blade to cut both sides.
Avoid a headache, just cut them bolts off.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,608
Likes: 3
From: Canberra AUSTRALIA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? ('75sting)
First try the PBlaster soak method and a breaker bar. Next.....
Go to home depot and buy a Demolition Saw blade. they are diamond (or carbide coated). You need at least four. Pull out the shims one by one. tyhey should be rusty enough to just fall apart. Lever the trailing arm to one side wo that you can get a good look at the bolt. you should have at least 1/2 an inch of visibility. Setup your electric reciprocating saw with the demolition blade so that it cuts teh bolt but does NOT smack the frame in fron of thebolt. If it does then it will bend the blade and maybe shatter. Oh yeah wear safety glasses.
A demolition blade cut through each side of my bolts in about 13 seconds.
You just need the right tool for the job.
I would never take a gas torch to a car that is made of fibreglass.
Good luck.
Go to home depot and buy a Demolition Saw blade. they are diamond (or carbide coated). You need at least four. Pull out the shims one by one. tyhey should be rusty enough to just fall apart. Lever the trailing arm to one side wo that you can get a good look at the bolt. you should have at least 1/2 an inch of visibility. Setup your electric reciprocating saw with the demolition blade so that it cuts teh bolt but does NOT smack the frame in fron of thebolt. If it does then it will bend the blade and maybe shatter. Oh yeah wear safety glasses.
A demolition blade cut through each side of my bolts in about 13 seconds.
You just need the right tool for the job.
I would never take a gas torch to a car that is made of fibreglass.
Good luck.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 441
Likes: 1
From: Canonsburg (Home of the Yenko fame!) PA
Re: TRAILING ARM REMOVAL? (stingry)
First try the PBlaster soak method and a breaker bar. Next.....
Go to home depot and buy a Demolition Saw blade. they are diamond (or carbide coated). You need at least four. Pull out the shims one by one. tyhey should be rusty enough to just fall apart. Lever the trailing arm to one side wo that you can get a good look at the bolt. you should have at least 1/2 an inch of visibility. Setup your electric reciprocating saw with the demolition blade so that it cuts teh bolt but does NOT smack the frame in fron of thebolt. If it does then it will bend the blade and maybe shatter. Oh yeah wear safety glasses.
A demolition blade cut through each side of my bolts in about 13 seconds.
You just need the right tool for the job.
I would never take a gas torch to a car that is made of fibreglass.
Good luck.
Go to home depot and buy a Demolition Saw blade. they are diamond (or carbide coated). You need at least four. Pull out the shims one by one. tyhey should be rusty enough to just fall apart. Lever the trailing arm to one side wo that you can get a good look at the bolt. you should have at least 1/2 an inch of visibility. Setup your electric reciprocating saw with the demolition blade so that it cuts teh bolt but does NOT smack the frame in fron of thebolt. If it does then it will bend the blade and maybe shatter. Oh yeah wear safety glasses.
A demolition blade cut through each side of my bolts in about 13 seconds.
You just need the right tool for the job.
I would never take a gas torch to a car that is made of fibreglass.
Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 11,183
Likes: 3,335
From: North of Toronto - Ontario
That's an awfully old post you picked up.
Here's how I installed mine
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...long-post.html
HIH
Mooser
Here's how I installed mine
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...long-post.html
HIH
Mooser
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 110
From: Garland Texas
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: SoCal California
Mooser,
Thanks for the link to the other thread that talks about this subject.
After many, many, many hours ... I finally got the rearend out and tomorrow I will start going through it (sanding, painting, new bushings, new rear springs, new shocks, etc.).
Thanks for the link to the other thread that talks about this subject.
After many, many, many hours ... I finally got the rearend out and tomorrow I will start going through it (sanding, painting, new bushings, new rear springs, new shocks, etc.).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,339
Likes: 546
From: Central Texas
I just put mine back in yesterday after a tracdogg2 rebuild. I used the fishing line method. Tie fishing line to the end of the bolt and pull it through the holes in the frame and the trailing arm. One of the best tips I've got from the forum!
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
From: SoCal California