'75sting

IF THE BOLT WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE BUSHING TO REMOVE THE ARM WHAT SHOULD I DO? I'VE SOAKED IT WITH PB BLAST AND TAPPED ON THE BOLT AND STILL NOTHING. I NEED SUGGESTIONS IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY.

THANKS'
LEE

88'Cubka

I used a Saws all.........PB Blaster sucks, get Kano Kroil.

viperjesse

I just completed this job last weekend, I sprayed the shims with Liquid Wrench til they could move. Took them out then used a sawsall, but you have to use a slow speed to cut. The bolts are hardened and will smoke the blade very quickly.

BBShark

I just removed my trailing arm bolts and was very lucky that they both pushed out (make sure the trailing arms are suppoted). I was prepared to make a coupling that I could thread on to the TA bolt threads and make a rod that has a bend that could clear the fender opening. Then I was going to use an air hammer. I think this might work but it would suck to do all this and still have to cut them out. Cutting them was described to me as the "worst job you can do on a C3". Kroil is the best. I would soak everything repeatedly.

Jack71

The options I have heard for trailing arm removel include...

Option 1 -- Sawsall with bimetal blades
Option 2 -- Cutting Torch
Option 3 -- With shims in, drill an increasingly larger hole thru the bolt

Bill Oxley

I also have this job coming up sometime soon. I haven't heard anyone mention the cutting torch method here on the forum, until your post Jack71, but, assuming you can get the shims out of the way, it sure seems like the cutting torch would be the way to go, if, of course, you can keep the heat away from the fiberglass. I haven't looked that closely yet, but seems like it would be fairly easy.

Anyone have direct experience with the cutting torch method?

Jack71

Best if you can remove the shims (slotted style). Heat can be a concern near the fiberglass but many folks did it without harm to the body.

One guy actually posted pictures of the puddled metal on his driveway along with the melted bolts a few years ago. He really enjoyed it I guess.

dogboy

It was pure hell to say the least. I couldn't get anything out after a week of spraying. The shims were slotted & still rusted in. I had to cut through the shims & the bolt on the outer side and than was able to get enough movment to pull the shims out with vicegrips from the inner side. Cutting the bolt only was easy compared to the shim/bolt cut. I went through 15 sawsall blades on one side. So you are looking at 4 possible cuts for both sides. fiigure 2-3 hours of cutting for a situation like I had. I replaced mine with stainless & urethane. The next guy will have a easier time. :banghead:

88'Cubka

Should have just hit the shims with a welding hammer. The rust would have eventually given out. Kano Kroil is god btw. I will never work on another vehicle without it....

brooksman9

It was pure hell to say the least. I couldn't get anything out after a week of spraying. The shims were slotted & still rusted in. I had to cut through the shims & the bolt on the outer side

:iagree:

Millwalkee (however it is spelled) Torch Blades are the BEST! :banghead:

SpyderD

I just did this chore. I sprayed everything down good then pryed the shims up and down with a screwdriver and hammer until they where relatively loose, then slowly and with some difficulty pryed the shims out. That was the toughest part.
The bolts will be rusted into the bushing sleeves most of the time. My driver's side bolt would not budge at all, my passenger side slid part of the way out but I couldn't get anything to push it all the way out and I could not get any leverage to pull it out. I used a reciprocating saw (aka "sawzall") to cut the bolts. I bought a 5-pack of 9" bi-metal blades but only used one blade to cut both sides.
Avoid a headache, just cut them bolts off.

stingry

First try the PBlaster soak method and a breaker bar. Next.....

Go to home depot and buy a Demolition Saw blade. they are diamond (or carbide coated). You need at least four. Pull out the shims one by one. tyhey should be rusty enough to just fall apart. Lever the trailing arm to one side wo that you can get a good look at the bolt. you should have at least 1/2 an inch of visibility. Setup your electric reciprocating saw with the demolition blade so that it cuts teh bolt but does NOT smack the frame in fron of thebolt. If it does then it will bend the blade and maybe shatter. Oh yeah wear safety glasses.

A demolition blade cut through each side of my bolts in about 13 seconds.

You just need the right tool for the job.

I would never take a gas torch to a car that is made of fibreglass.

Good luck.

JC6372

I agree with this guy about the torch. I had to get my welder buddy in my garage and this is how we did it. I was paranoid the whole time. Fiberglass likes to catch on fire. Luckily mine didnt but the mouse/rat nests inside the frame did! I stood there with a hose the whole time and kept soaking it. It worked but i do not reccomend this method at all.

Corvette Kiwi

OK, lets say that you CAN get the bolts out somehow. The real question is how do you get a new bolt back in??

Mooser

That's an awfully old post you picked up.
Here's how I installed mine
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...long-post.html
HIH
Mooser

74modified

The kroil is a good penetrating oil, but if you don't have access to it, try 1/2 auto transmission fluid and 1/2 acetone. Mix it up, it works great.

tracdogg2

This works very well!
Mike

Corvette Kiwi

Mooser,

Thanks for the link to the other thread that talks about this subject.

After many, many, many hours ... I finally got the rearend out and tomorrow I will start going through it (sanding, painting, new bushings, new rear springs, new shocks, etc.).

Street Rat

I just put mine back in yesterday after a tracdogg2 rebuild. I used the fishing line method. Tie fishing line to the end of the bolt and pull it through the holes in the frame and the trailing arm. One of the best tips I've got from the forum!

Corvette Kiwi

That is brilliant! I'll try it later this week when I reassemble the rear.