Gary

 

When I didn't have access to the regular table mount stands (you can attach them to engine stands too) I literally used an empty Muncie 4 speed case sitting on the floor. When installing everything, you need the trans standing on end, so the trans case was the perfect height to hold it up and it let the output shaft extend through into it. I've used cinder blocks too. I had one of those small two step step ladders once that I cut a whole in the top step and let shaft go through too. Lots of stuff can work great as long as you're careful not to knock it over!

Then when all done, you set it up on table to install valvebody stuff.

Are you building it stock or tricking it out? LOTS of little things you can do with out spending much.


JIM

 

At that HP level you'll never hurt it. It's a very tough piece. The basic shift kits are pretty decent. It doesn't take a lot to make them shift harder. In fact, just about everything in it is to "calm" it down some.

The only weak link really inside is the 2nd gear sprag if you do burnouts or shift it while spinning. The stock one has 17 "elements" or rollers and the heavy duty ones have 34. They are commonly available from trans shops. It's basically a stock piece that lots of places sell as a trick one. I'd seriously recommend it. It's simple to install.

The stock ratio is a 2.48 and the one you're considering is what...a 2.75 maybe? That's a pretty good increase and if you stay with 3.08's, would help off the line a lot, but you might want to do some calculations to see what rpms will fall to on the shift. It will be a pretty big drop. The tighter the converter, the more it will be noticeable.

One of the best mods is too re-do the high/reverse piston assy. It's basically a 2 part deal where the outer part of piston is used to apply it in one gear, and the inner part is used in the other. If you leave out the lip seal that separates them, you have effectively doubled the area of the piston that applies high gear. It will never slip almost regardless of the power you put to it. The only downside is it also engages reverse very solid when you shift to it. If you have a normal idle speed, but if you have 1200 rpm idle, it will hit pretty hard when it engages. But it is always a mod I make. The one in my old Camaro is still running behind a 502 after I sold car to my buddy. It had a gazzilion nitrous and motor passes on it tons of street miles and it's now been
14 years since I built it!

Also part of this mod is to install a small cup plug in the case. There is a small hole under valve body at output end of case close to the 12 point bolt that holds center carrier that needs to be plugged.

Make sure to dissassemble front pump halves to inspect gears and replace bushing. A worn one will cause a mystery front seal leak. Use a few hose clamps assembled together into a long single deal to wrap around pump to hold it all centered as you tighten bolts of the two halves back together.

As you build up clutch packs, get them as tight as you can and still have enough play to turn clutches with slight drag. Maybe .010-.015 clearance. Often they build them with WAVE plates to cushion shifts. Try to leave them out and install an extra steel and a fiber to improve capacity.

An old thin flexible butter knife is great for assembling lip seals and pistons into hubs. Or a large paper clip made into a loop and held in a piece of copper tubing crimped. Or you can get a trick tool!

See if your kit has the plug for the valve body that eliminates the automatic 1-2 upshift. Most T-400s will automatically upshift no matter how long you hold it in low gear ata bout 5500 rpm. Plug the hole on outside of valve body and then you can hold it as long as you want.

I always leave the spring out from under the 1-2 accumulator even on mild street deals. It won't be too harsh, but will really make it firm. Lots of shift kits do it too.

Make sure to use all the return springs under pistons especially with shift kit mods that increase line pressure with new pump spring. If you don't it will "drag" when you throw it in neutral while moving..like at the end of a race where you stick it inneutral to coast to a stop.

Make sure you use a top quality filter. Don't use generic ones..get a good one. I've had them "suck up" and restrict flow soon after a rebuild with higher pressures.

Get one of the adjustable vacuum modulators and you can fine tune it on shift points. The stock large ones are the most sensitive, but the smaller replacement ones work great too.

Unless towing and stuff, no need for trick fluids...just good ole Dexron..or if used Hi perf lining materials, they often recommend Type F ford fluid. It's a little more aggressive. I've used it often.

On your shift kit...I'd use the Street/Strip parts, not the towing one.
JIM

 

I did the Th400 rebuild with the B+M TransKit. The directions were great, but
I bought the Haynes manual for more pictures.

BTW - when I openned up the tranny, ALL of the suggested mods (drilling
clutch housings, etc) had already been implemented. This was from my 75,
so maybe these mods became standard at some point. I DID have one bushing
that was in need of attention. Other than that, it was just keeping everything
in order and keeping it clean clean clean. Thinking back, the dishwasher
would have been a good 'tool' to use after degreasing.

I went 'street/strip' on the shift mod level. It barked the tires under heavy
throttle, and even chirped with my 100k mile L48 when downshifting at
60MPH. Some people don't like the modified shifts, but it is controllable by
the way you drive it. I did not find it harsh under 'normal' driving conditions.

Good luck.

:seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 10:21 AM 1/8/2004]