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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 10:20 PM
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Default Cam question

Im looking to buy a cam, but after reading up on some material i decided that i would much rather get hydraliuc roller cam than a plain flat tappet cam. what i was wondering is do i have to get new rockers? and if i do get new rockers and valve spring will i have to rebuild the whole head to match everything else? About how much would it cost to get a wilder roller cam as opposed to a flat tappet cam?
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 11:19 PM
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Default Re: Cam question (killervette666)

New rocker need depends on the current wear and mileage. New valve spring need depends on mileage and new cam lift compared to old. Roller set ups will add 200+ bucks to the build up. The "+" amounts to what is needed elsewhere to match the new cam profile. You could be looking at 3 zeros real quick.


[Modified by 63Banshee, 10:21 PM 1/20/2004]
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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Default Re: Cam question (killervette666)

Roller cams will require stiffer valve springs in a larger diameter. These springs will require the cylinder head to be machined.
The stiffer spring for the roller cam will be strong enough to pull out the rocker studs so you will need to have them pinned by a machine shop at the least.
Roller cams almost all have more lift than the standard sled style rockers can take. At a minimum you will need long slot rockers.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:12 AM
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Default Re: Cam question (63Banshee)

[QUOTE]New rocker need depends on the current wear and mileage. New valve spring need depends on mileage and new cam lift compared to old. Roller set ups will add 200+ bucks to the build up. The "+" amounts to what is needed elsewhere to match the new cam profile. You could be looking at 3 zeros real quick.

Roller rockers, You looking at big $$ for that set up.
A solid tapit may be a lil cheper, and there a PITA to.


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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:16 AM
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Default Re: Cam question (wackedvette)

By the time you buy roller rockers, roller lifters, and a roller cam you are looking at $750-$1,000 depending on the setup. :yesnod:
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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Default Re: Cam question (wackedvette)

A solid tapit may be a lil cheper, and there a PITA to.
You are both right and wrong. Probably the biggest bang for your buck and highly underrated cam change is a solid flat tappet cam. I will never run another hydraulic cam in any of my motors that have a performance application in mind. Switching to a solid flat tappet will be a good bit cheaper than a solid or hydraulic roller setup. They have also gotten a bad rap over the years. For some reason everyone thinks the valve lash needs to be constantly adjusted every other day. Once the cam break-in procedure is over and you have a few miles on the cam, the lash rarely needs adjusted. I used to check my valve lash on my motor every other week (just because I'm **** about my motors and I did a lot of racing with it). Just about everytime I checked the valve lash they were right on. It's not uncommon for people to adjust their valves once or twice a season (spring to winter). The performance to cost ratio of switching to a hydraulic roller vs. solid flat tappet cam is not worth it. If you are going with a roller cam, go with a solid roller.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:30 AM
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Default Re: Cam question (bence13_33)

:iagree:

With the use of poly locks valve adustment isn't needed as often w/ solid cams. :yesnod:
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