Can it be safley done at home?

 

A man built it a man can rebuild it!
Take your time , usa a manual, lay everything out in order it comes off.
Change all switchs and locks now also.
Good Luck

 

I have done two standard ones. I have never done a tilt or telescopic one...whole different ballgame. Like mentioned above, take you time, write down on paper how it came out and have a good manual. Change it all why you are in there....otherwise dont waste your time.

 

Thanks guys. It's going to be diffrent, thats for shure. I just need to replace the lil ball berrings at the bottom of the collum, where it clamps to the stering box.

 

You will need to drop and remove the steering column from you car. The T&T column and the standard (non-adjustable) column are identical down where the steering shaft attaches to the gear. The lower bearing is held in place by a simple spring clip. Sometimes the steering shaft is really rusty so that the lower bearing takes some penetrating oil and time to get off and replace.

I have a paper that should help you in dropping and removing your steering column.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/redir.asp?site=458

Standard column picture: http://www.corvettefaq.com/redir.asp?site=633

T&T Column picture: http://www.corvettefaq.com/redir.asp?site=605

If you need further help, just post.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread.....

Jim, I have a problem with a 77 TT column in Cali 1. The lower shaft appears to have retracted about a 1/2" into the column after I removed the steering box. Can I simply draw it back out (doesn't seem to want to pull back out) or is there something more I need to do?

I've read your paper at Corvette FAQ but still not sure what's happened.

Thanks for your help.

Best regards,
Joe

 

Quite a few Corvette owners have reported the same problem. The steering shaft consists of two parts. A tubular part that sticks out of the lower end of the column and a second solid part that it up inside and extends up toward the steering wheel. The two parts are precision formed so that they engage and are able to telescope onto each other. To eliminate the very last bit of lash between the two parts and also to hold the two shafts to a set length, the manufacturing process included injecting molten plastic into the interface of the two shafts.

Since the steering shaft is designed to be able to telescope on itself in case of a severe frontal collision, the plastic injected joint is designed to shear. It is possible to shear the plastic and shorten the shafts on each other by dropping the column on its end or for instance by prying on the end of the shaft (to try and remove the flex coupling).

The bare end of the steering shaft that is underhood usually gets somewhat rusty. When the shaft gets pushed into the steering column, the rust can cause pretty high loads as it presses into the column lower bearing.

The two shafts engage each other over a long distance. There is really no danger in losing your ability to steer if the two shafts are collapsed. The only real problem with sheared plastic is that you could develop a slight amount of lash between the two shafts.

Lastly, some people have gripped the steering shaft with a vice grips and gently hammer the shaft back down. Others have attached the flange to the steering shaft and pryed on it. The bare shaft should extend out of the column lower bearing to a 4.5 inch length.

Another dimension is from the tip of the steering gear input shaft to the tip of the column shaft should be from 1.00 to 1.30 inches. The flexible coupling need to span this distance.

 

I got the berring's in the bottom replaced. Now its time to tackle the turn siginal part. :hurray:

 

Thanks Jim,

This is exactly what I needed to know. I appreciate your help.

You are a real friend.

Best regards,
Joe :cheers:

 

Wackedvette,
Let me know if you have a T&T or a standard (non-adjustable) steering column. Paper #1 and Pic #1 start you off with repairing and replacing lock cylinders, pulling steering wheels, etc. They are located at http://www.corvettefaq.com in the Steering section.

 

Just a hint: Insert the 4 torx-bolts that hold the cast aluminum part (if you have the T&T) to the bottom tube of the column with blue Loctite - for some funny reason, these bolts seem to come loose after while.

I believe that a lot of owners experienced that wobbly steering column - approximately with cars at age between 20 and 25 years.