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Has anyone put O2 sensors in their sidepipes? With the collectors being so far away, I would think that you'd need heated sensors because they wouldn't get up to the required 600*. Is there any requirement as far as the orientation of the sensor?
I have seen a C3 with Hooker sidepipes and the sensors were vertical, facing up of course, right near the gills and he had the wire from the sensor going into the gill.
The only problems I ran into was on cold days. The car would go back and forth in closed loop. i.e. ran rich.
Was this because they weren't heated O2s?
I have seen a C3 with Hooker sidepipes and the sensors were vertical, facing up of course, right near the gills and he had the wire from the sensor going into the gill.
So they were on the outside?? :U I'd rather a more stealth appearance.
i only had it on a short time before i removed them. 69myway has a heated one on his sidepipes and its on the outside of the car near the gills.Im going back to hooker sidepipes very soon and im gone to mount it under the car i dont want to see it either.
I just sent buddy an email on this very question. What about using headers or in my case LS6 manifolds that collect the exhaust then some piping to route under the frame rail. For ground clearance couldn't the pipe under the frame rail be oval instead of round. I know this would be custom fabrication, but is it feasible?
Ok ... if you can use the LS1 heated O2s on the collector of a set of sidepipe headers, does it have to be vertical or can it be horizontal and hidden under the frame rail?
Do standard hooker side mount headers for sidepipes work for an LS1?? Or does the whole assembly need to be custom?
Ok ... if you can use the LS1 heated O2s on the collector of a set of sidepipe headers, does it have to be vertical or can it be horizontal and hidden under the frame rail?
Do standard hooker side mount headers for sidepipes work for an LS1?? Or does the whole assembly need to be custom?
Because the exhaust ports have equal spacing, it's going to have to be custom. Right now, I'm planning to cut the headers about 12" from the header flanges and have someone weld in new 1 3/4" tubes to an LS1 header flange. I think that's about the easiest way to get sidepipes with an LS1. I was hoping that the O2s could be mounted horizontally so that they tuck under the frame rail, out of sight.
According to edlebrock, for thier EFI system, one back inch from the collector flange, (to towards the rear bumpe). No requirement to mount it up. Mine face straight out to the side, no probs
There is an installation diagram that shows the installation of the sensor 10 degrees elevated from the horizontal to prevent the accumulation of moisture between the side of the sensor and the housing.
I'm "old school" not old, But I thought to get an accurate reading it needs to be a certain distance "after" the collecter. Now someone told me (depending on how precise of a reading you want) if you do not want the sensor showing you can put at the end of one of the single pipes before the collector. Yes you would only be getting a reading from one cylinder, but there should not be that much difference between cylinders (not the way I would do it). I've looked into this same thing and there is virtually NO clearence for an O2 sensor to mount, so it CANNOT be seen. I'm sure with a little thinking and fabricating, a cover can be made to hide the sensor and look like part of the header.
I thought that I had heard the 10* thing somewhere. I wonder how much different the readings would be on the top of the tube verses the side. I think that in order to clear the frame, the sensor would end up pointing downward slightly.
There is an installation diagram that shows the installation of the sensor 10 degrees elevated from the horizontal to prevent the accumulation of moisture between the side of the sensor and the housing.
Ryan
:iagree: Position of the O2 sensor (horizontal/vertical) doesn't matter it just should be mounted so that water doesn't collect in it. Also you should mount it on the inside of a curve because it will not give acurate readings. :cheers:
Not to highjack the thread, but I have a similar question on this subject. When I got my sidepipes from jethot, they placed bungs on my collectors, but not exactly where I told them (they are pointing at the frame). Does anybody use an O2 sensor that is short enough to clear the frame?
Matt, I put the Holley Commander 950 Multiport Fuel Injection system on my 69-427 Vert. As you can see in the sig, it has the Hooker sidepipes on it. I mounted the oxygen sensor on the inside of the collector pointing into the car just under the frame. It is located on the passenger side at the 3 o'clock position looking front to back so you can't see it unless you crawl under the car. Holley recommended anywhere from 3 to 12 o'clock so moisture dosen't collect and present a problem. It is a heated oxygen sensor. Now here is the RUB!!! Turns out that is still to far from the heads and even though the sensor is heated, unless you turning some pretty high rev's the exaust gas is still too cool. The only option for hooker sidepipes where the primaries have to run all the way out to the side, is to sense only one cylinder. I havn't done that and opt'd to run open loop. Which by the way with my old high duration cam is probably the only way it would work anyway.
I thought that I had heard the 10* thing somewhere. I wonder how much different the readings would be on the top of the tube verses the side. I think that in order to clear the frame, the sensor would end up pointing downward slightly.