RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Re: RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS (Runner81)
Your trailing arm bushings are probably shot also. Now is the time to replace it all. Your best bet is to cut the bolts out with a sawzall. Once the bolts are cut you can get the trailing arm out and have access to the shims. It takes some elbow grease but you will be rewarded with a rear suspension that is good as new when the bushings are replaced and the alignment is up to specs.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS (Runner81)
You will probably have to cut through them. But, consider what others have said. If you haven't rebuilt the rear trailing arms, your bearings and other stuff are probably due. They are not cheap, but this would be the time to r & r the arms. Check out the thread by Van Steel on a group purchase of rebult . The price $330 is a good one, and you will be done with it forever. :yesnod: If you just want to remove the shims, get a sawzall with lots of long blades and have at it. :smash:
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
Re: RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS (Runner81)
As noted by others they will have to be cut off. And replaced with a kit. You will need a shim kit as well, preferably SS.
[Modified by paul67, 7:10 PM 2/7/2004]
[Modified by paul67, 7:13 PM 2/7/2004]
[Modified by paul67, 7:10 PM 2/7/2004]
[Modified by paul67, 7:13 PM 2/7/2004]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 0
From: Olive Branch MS
St. Jude Contributor
Re: RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS (c3-4me)
Milwalkee Torch blades are what I used. They worked very well. Expensive, but worth it. The shims were still stuck though. Just used a bigger hammer :cheers:
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
Re: RUSTED/SEIZED TRAILING ARM SHIMS (brooksman9)
I work for a company (American Saw) That all we make is saw blades. Definitly get yourself a bimetal blade. They will outlast a standard blade 10:1. They are more expensive but you will only use one or two. I get them for samples so I chuck them when there is still life left but it took me 2 blades. The Torch is a good blade but get yourself a Lenox Lazer. They are being sold at Lowes now. You will blast through the bolts in no time. You better have a high amp Sawzall. I can stall a standard Sawzall with these new Lazer blades. They cut great.
