After a lot of research I have decided to go with a 571.5 in. (4.56 x 4.375) short deck.
I bought a Mark 6, CNC GM Bowtie block with billet splayed main caps. I will have the block O-ringed. Going to run 0 deck with .032 copper head gaskets

My heads (Pro Action 320 cc) are being done now, not sure what size the port will end up at, but we are trying to keep it as small as possible and still make the minimum 425 cfm of flow at .750 lift I told the porter I wanted. I have a lot of confidence in this guy, so I am not worried.

Pistons are Venolia 13.5 to 1, nitrous pistons. 1.22 CH Total seal Hellfire rings. JE Pro series pins

Rods are Carrilo +.250 with Carr bolts

Oil pan is a fabbed Steff's kickout (7 quart) with windage screen. Stock GM oil pump.

Still looking for a crank, probably going to buy a new Lunati Pro series.

Per Harold Brookshire, cam will be a Lunati solid roller 282 / 292 @ .050 .768 lift with 1.8 rockers on a 114 LSA. I will run 1.6 rockers (.683 lift) on the street to save on lifter life.

I am going to run twin 1000 cfm Holley throttle bodies on a Hogans tunnel ram. Still doing some research on the injectors I will use. My knowledge is a little weak here so I have some research to do before I make a decision. I was told by Pat Musi to run the Accel DFI for the brains, so I will.

The Holley throttle bodies have built in nitrous passages that are good to up to 200 hp each. I will run these up to 150 each. I am not a big fan of "Dry" nitrous systems.

I am going to run a Pro Race Fogger for the big nitrous stuff. I am going to send it back to the same guy who tuned Steve's (542 C2) Plate (Jeff Prock)

The goal is 900 HP + on the motor and 1400 with a Prock tuned nitrous hit.

The tranny will be a Lenco 4 spd. Not sure of the clutch yet, got some research to do their also.

Rear is a full Tom's IRS, 12 bolt spool. 3.73 or 3.90 gears

I most HP I have steered down the 1/4 is about 800, so I will take my time and work up to the big power stuff.

Any comments or critics ?

John

 

I can't claim to be an expert since I've never built a motor that serious, but it looks like you've done you research well. Serious parts= serious motor & it looks like you'll have your hands full when you hit the road!

I do have a question- did Harold happen to say if he's sharing his old Ultradyne cam profiles with Lunati now or is he working solely from what Lunati was already making?

 

I don't know for sure Les, but you have to assume that Harold is using all his knowledge at Lunati. I do know he is working on some new lobes for Lunati. R and D never stops.

 

There is no need to O ring the block...can't remember the name of the head gasket, made in N.E. Ohio, eliminates the need to O ring the block...this gasket is used by the Pro Drag guys, and costs around 130 bucks...if interested, I will find the mfg. name and URL.

 

I think the manufacter that GDiana is reffering to is Cometic Gaskets. There multi-layer steel gaskets would not need the block to be o-ringed. Particularly with only 13.5-1 compression and a thick deck bowtie block. It is actually very rare that you would need to have to use o-rings on anything but a high pressure blower application when you use the better blocks and gaskets that are available nowdays.


[Modified by Pete79L82, 6:26 PM 2/15/2004]

 

I have heard of those gasketts, but am not familiar with them. I would be willing to do some research on it, but don't forget I am talking about a 500 HP shot of nitrous in cunjuction with 13.5 to 1. I assure you that is higher cylinder pressure than 99.99% of gasoline blower combinations ever experiance.

 

Thanks Pete...had a case of brain deads....

NOX...think your reasearch will validate what Pete posted...no need for O rings, not with these gaskets.

 

From my experiance, with the Cometic gaskets and a large shot of gas, they are a waste of money. I used a set on my 540 with a Merlin block and Dart heads, I spray a fogger with a 350 shot and the Cometic gaskets did not last any longer than the 1017-1 Fel-pro gaskets. Do it one time and o-ring the block, cut receiver groves in the heads and use copper gaskets. I finally did and have not had a problem in over a year . Just my learning lesson.

 

Thanks Skid Mark, that is sort of what I thought. I have run copper head gaskets on the street for over a year and have had no problems. I also like the fact they are reusable many times over.

 

Sounds likes like a great package, but I wonder if you would be faster with an auto? God knows the 4 speed would be 10X's more fun to drive, but with 13:5:1, and 1500hp, I doubt you'll be driving this car several times a week. The auto will be more consistant (a major factor in winning races), less margin of error, and ultimatly faster. There is a reason why the large majority of single diget e.t. cars run autos, I was just curious why you chose to go with a manual?

Nice setup indeed. :thumbs:

 

Corey, no doubt the auto would be easier to heard down the track. For me the cool factor has a lot to do with the equation, and there is not any cool auto's out there. I would run this Lenco with a convertor if I could, but it is clutch only. There is also the fact you will never catch me bracket racing, I do not care if the car varies a couple of tenths per run. I will do my best to make it consistant, but will be trying to go faster, not more consistant.

I am really hooked on those four lenco handles sticking up there and yanking on them. :smash:

 

Go ahead and o'ring the block. When you push the button and effective cylinder pressure exceeds the equivalent of over 20.1 compression ratio you will blow those mere mortal gaskets .

Open spring pressure difference between the 1.8 and 1.6 rockers will not be enough difference to extend the life of the rockers on the street ...... use the higher ratio , the money saved will buy your next set .

Use good motor oil in that one becasue no ordinary oil will keep it together. If you want a recommendation send me a PM

Lastly , good luck and have fun :thumbs:

 

I'm with you 100% on the Bracket Racing topic. When I was growing up my dad campagned his '67 HEMI GTX race car. He said the straw that broke the camels back was when he had to run agaist a brand new VW Bug in his high 9 second car. :lol:

I could only imagine shifting a 4 speed with 1,000hp+ hp. :D Kudos for being different. :yesnod: :thumbs:

 

Curtis, Good point on the spring pressure issue, it would be lighter with the 1.6's but maybe not enough to extend the life of the lifter that much. Perhaps I should swap out the springs also. I could run some Comp 939-16 springs with the 1.6's and then set the whole deal on kill for the track with stiffer springs and the 1.8 rockers.

Corey, I hear ya. With all the imports around here I would have to give them a leave that would have to be measured with a sun dial :lol:

 

NOX, Great motor combo. I really like it. I only have one nitpick. The piston to cyl head clearance seems a bit on the tight side. That combo should give a .032" clearance. I seem to recall the minimum recommended clearance is .035". I know not much of a difference, but that's the only thing I saw. As hard as you'll be running the motor I don't know if running a less than minimum clearance is recommended.

I'd be interested in MountainMotor's take on this as I know opinions on clearances vary.



[Modified by blunsford, 3:15 AM 2/18/2004]