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I just got finished changing the fuel pump gasket and let me tell you it was the BIGGEST PAIN IN THE A-- job I have done yet.
I almost took a friends advise and just blocked it off and put a electric fuel pump on. Trying to get the fuel rod to stay up and then get the pump on and bolted up will try anyone patience. Next time ,no there will be no next time. Oh well just letting off a lot of steam. Now I can finish what this project started out to be, install the new dynomax ceramic caoted headers with chambered exhaust.
Sorry you had so much trouble. There's a couple of ways to hold in the rod while installing the gasket. Both work pretty good. The first way is to apply some heavy grease to the rod so that it temporarily "sticks". The second way involved using a small bolt screwed into a hole located next to the fuel pump but in the front of your block. This hole is designed to be used with a longer bolt that is screwed into the block and up against the pump rod to hold it. Once you install your rod, gasket and pump, you remove the longer bolt and install a shorter one to just block the hole. Have a look and I bet you'll see the bolt/hole I'm trying to describe. :cheers:
just did the fuel pump thing last night on my 65 (327) as well - PITA in the extreme, yes, thankfully I had the "put a longer bolt in the otherwise useless bolt hole to hold the arm" tip in advance, but even so, with everything else on the engine (that would be the alt, the heater hoses, the lower rad hose, the exhaust manifold, all contributing to blocking off that area), it sucked due to little direct access to even so much as see just what you were doing, much less line up this and that and tightening the two bolts . . . all while on my back on a cold concrete floor in an unheated garage, with gas dripping in my eyes . . . :banghead:
Advice: yes do the longer bolt in the otherwise useless bolt hole trick, and only tackle it if you are in a good, patient mood . . . . which will soon evaporate anyway.