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I'm building up a 350 for the 75... Working with the stock 76cc heads and a .30 over large journal motor.
I'm thinking about going with a solid cam instead of a hydraulic just for the lack of valve float at higher rpms... I wish I was in the financial situation to be able to snag a sold roller setup and aluminum heads but its not in the dressing this time around!
At the moment I'm trying to set everything up so that in a year or two I can take a week end and swap out the heads/intake... the lower end should be able to handle most anything I want to throw at it... (Forged pistons, ARP rod bolts...) Its a 2 bolt motor but with some ARP main bolts it should be able to hold together at a decent rpm.
I've read that most every dual plane intake craps out at 6000, so I'm building around that number for strength and a nice flat powerband. Currently the goal is to build the foundation for a strong motor in the future but do it right this time around!
So... will a solid cam live for a 100,000 miles? Will I run into problems with adjustments going outa wack every couple hundred miles? Am I better off to go hydraulic and not worry about the valve float?
Others might correct me but I betcha you won't need a solid cam to get to 6k. Just get some good valvesprings and you should be good to go with a hyd cam.
Others might correct me but I betcha you won't need a solid cam to get to 6k. Just get some good valvesprings and you should be good to go with a hyd cam.
Brett :thumbs:
The machinist that pulled the heads apart said the springs checked out ok...
At the moment I'm just trying to put it back together for 75 bucks instead of 900 for upgrading to vortecs... (Heads/rockers/intake)
First let me say that I love solid cams. I am going with the xtreme 282s on my BB. They make awesome power and sound really good. However there is a lot more stress on the valve train. If you want to get 100K then go with a hyd. If this is a daily driver definately go with a Hyd. If it is a weekend warrior than you will be fine with a solid as long as you have matching springs a good set of rockers and poly locks. Adjustment schedule will depend a lot on how you drive it.
However there is a lot more stress on the valve train.
How is there more stress on the valvetrain ?
I guess I should have clarified more in respect to valve adjustment. A solid lift cam is a lot less forgiving on the lobes on the cam and rockers when they are out of adjustment either to tight or to loose.
May I offer a potential compromise... CompCams ProMagnum lifters, called their "anti-pump up" lifters to reduce chances of valve float. I have them, have accidentally revved to 6500 with no problems, and regularly rev to 5500. They are adjusted initially like solid lifters (clearance, not preloaded) and make the cool clicking solid lifter sound, but do not need to be reset nearly as often. Heck it's probably been 5000k since I put them in at the end of the summer. Probably about time to check them, just to be sure they're still dead on. Anyway, I am very happy with them. I think they were actually cheaper or maybe $5 more than standard hydraulic!