Doing brakes
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Doing brakes
Hopefully this isn't a really stupid question, but I was looking for a brief overview of putting new pads on my '79. I have never done it before, so I am not sure exactly what to do. Do I need pads only for the rear or for both ends? Anything else will be very helpful. Also, anything else I should do while I'm down there? Things to look for and adjust/replace would be cool. I know my e-brake is not working, but whose is?
Dave
[Modified by 19vette79, 10:54 AM 2/19/2004]
Dave
[Modified by 19vette79, 10:54 AM 2/19/2004]
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 13,858
Likes: 0
From: A 12/8 man in a 4/4 world
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
you can do front and back brakes separate. before replacing pads verify that the calipers are not leaking. I suggest investing in a haynes manual. the $20 is workth it. the step by step instructions are good.
Help me change brakes on my 96 lumina. the break system was nothing like Ive worked on before.
Help me change brakes on my 96 lumina. the break system was nothing like Ive worked on before.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 641
Likes: 2
From: Storm lake Iowa
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (Grinchia)
So I can do front and back separately, but is it better to just get both ends done together? Are there any special tools I'll need, and do I need another person to help? I am probably going to get a 2-ton floor jack at AutoZone for $50, is there anything preferable over something like this? Just trying to be 100% prepared, you know.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,757
Likes: 2,508
From: Buckeye, AZ
St. Jude Donor '12-'13
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
On any car I have only ever done the brakes worn. The fronts typically wear twice as fast as the rear, due to the turning, engine weight, etc. I agree with the others and check for any caliper leakage indications. If there are you will want to replace them or have them rbuilt, if you are concerned about numbers match.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,601
Likes: 52
From: Jefferson City MO
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
Changing the brake pads is a snap. You can do it if you get a good Haynes manual.
By the way, Wal Mart has the 2 ton jacks for about $20.00 and I just purchased 2 hydraulic jack stands (2 ton) for $8.88. Much cheaper than Autozone and my jack is over 5 years old and still works like new.
[Modified by Andrew, 4:11 PM 2/19/2004]
By the way, Wal Mart has the 2 ton jacks for about $20.00 and I just purchased 2 hydraulic jack stands (2 ton) for $8.88. Much cheaper than Autozone and my jack is over 5 years old and still works like new.
[Modified by Andrew, 4:11 PM 2/19/2004]
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
To check for leaks, climb under and first look at the inside of the tire. If the leak is bad, you will see fluid sprayed on the inner sidewall. Beyond that, pull the wheels, pull the calipers off and take a close look at the pistons. If there is rust or fluid, they need attention. If the fluid is murky (check at master cylinder), you need to change the fluid through bleeding. If you find problems and the brakes haven't been tended to in 10 or 20 years, plan on doing a complete job. Get a set of calipers, pads and maybe some lines from Vette Brakes (get a discount through the Forum. Maybe pull the wheels take a look and post again. :cheers:
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
So I'm starting right now. I'm doing the front. The tires look fine, no spraying. I'll look closer at the calipers and let you all know how it goes.
Thanks for the help so far,
Dave
Thanks for the help so far,
Dave
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (79Fever)
i am stuck. i have the inner pad out, but i cannot get the new pad in. how can you put screwdrivers on the calipers pistons when you have to jam a pad in? I need help asap, as i am running on a tight schedule.
Dave
Dave
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
I'm done, but not in a good way. i had to quit. i was unable to get even close to getting one new pad in. 2 hours later, and i have nothing. god damn it, i don't understand how to retain the pistons while inserting the pad. are the screwdrivers they are talking about .0001" thick? I am so irate that i have to drive with the same old pads in after all that hassle. the new pads were just too thick (i could get one side between the piston, but then the backing of the pad is too wide- you can't shimmy it in, you have to drop it straight in) and the old were just thin enough to put back in. i really need some help. there's no f'n way i'll pay someone to do them at this point- i'm too emotionally and financially involved at this point. :mad :mad :mad :mad
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
Don't despair. It is difficult to get the pads in. If I recall correctly, there is a little "tool" that you can purchase for maybe $5 from any of the Vette suppliers that is shaped like a U, made of thin aluminum and is inserted into the caliper. It holds the pistons back while you change the pads. Others may have other tricks. Wait- you will get lots of help.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 17,102
Likes: 7
From: Fair Oaks, OK
Re: Doing brakes (R. Bruno)
Is there no way to push the pistons back into the bore with a C-clamp? I have done a lot of brakes, but never have had problems getting pads in a caliper and then on a rotor. Take the cap off of your master cylinder. Heck if you have to, crack open the bleeder valves, put a hose on them, and run the fluid into a cup and just bleed the brake system when you're done. That way you should very easily be able to push the pistons back in the bores (with the valves cracked).
This is not a difficult job, take your time and don't get upset.
This is not a difficult job, take your time and don't get upset.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 852
Likes: 0
From: Katy TX
Re: Doing brakes (Stoge)
Is there no way to push the pistons back into the bore with a C-clamp?
To do the pad install without the clips I just do the following:
1. Remove the caliper from the mount
2. Remove the old pads
3. Open the master cylinder
4. Mount the new pads on the caliper
5. Using both hands, one on each side, pull the pads back as far as you can pushing all pistons in an equal amount. You should be able to get them close to if not touching the caliper body.
6. Lastly, slide the open pads over the rotor and remount the caliper.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (PatG)
Thanks for all the suggestions. Man, I was PISSED last night. So, back to the topic at hand, I have a few questions regarding the latest posts:
1) How difficult is it to take the calipers off? Does this require bleeding the brakes once I'm done?
2) By opening the master cylinder, do you mean simply taking the cover off the brake fluid reservoir?
3) I've read about those aluminum clamps (ie, in Mid American Design) but have never seen them in stores. Granted I shop at Baxter's or AutoZone b/c I have no idea where to find a good Vette shop in Portland, OR. Any tips on where to find them? Also, do you slip those things over the pistons while the pads are still in, or once they're removed?
By the way, I did have the fluid reservoir lid off last night, and fluid did overflow. I went step-by-step per the Haynes manual, but I got nada.
Dave
1) How difficult is it to take the calipers off? Does this require bleeding the brakes once I'm done?
2) By opening the master cylinder, do you mean simply taking the cover off the brake fluid reservoir?
3) I've read about those aluminum clamps (ie, in Mid American Design) but have never seen them in stores. Granted I shop at Baxter's or AutoZone b/c I have no idea where to find a good Vette shop in Portland, OR. Any tips on where to find them? Also, do you slip those things over the pistons while the pads are still in, or once they're removed?
By the way, I did have the fluid reservoir lid off last night, and fluid did overflow. I went step-by-step per the Haynes manual, but I got nada.
Dave
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
Another note: When I actually got the front pads out, they were not a huge amount thinner than my new pads. That made me wonder what the problem actually is. My brakes have always squeaked, but after storing the car for 2 months, the pedal now needs to be pressed almost to the floor when I come to a stop. The brake fluid is over half full, and everything else seems to be fine. Along with this, my car grabs and pulls to a side when I brake (If my wheel is turned slightly left, it pulls left. If it is turned more to the right, it pulls that way.) Should I check the rear pads, should I replace all 4 pads, or...??? Also, I am still unable to find the aluminum piston retainers. Any ideas?
Dave
Dave
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
Whoa hold on there :eek: You didn't give us all the info. Brake pads don't go bad just by sitting a couple of months (maybe a couple of centuries). Based on what you report, you have either a leaking caliper(s) (you have to at the very least unbolt them and take a look) or you need a master cylinder, or you have air in the system for some other reason. The calipers tend to spring leaks when they sit. Also, if you have one leaker, the others may not be far behind. Do you have a manual of some kind (Haynes or similar) and a good set of tools? Don't even bother with the pads until you find the reason for the soft pedal. Unbolt each caliper (no need to unhook the brake lines yet) and take a good hard look. If you finds a leak of any kind, plan on a complete brake job. Let us know what you find.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,410
Likes: 0
From: chicago IL
Re: Doing brakes (R. Bruno)
If you're going to do a brake rebuild i must say that it is VERY easy to replace the calipers. Sounds like you've got leaking calipers, you can either get rebuilt calipers with O-rings, or new aftermarket calipers. I got wilwood Superlite forged aluminum calipers, they weigh 3 times less and stop like a dream, only problem is you need custom brackets to fit them on, 427v8 made mine. Keep us updated!! :chevy
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco, CA
Re: Doing brakes (19vette79)
In answer to some of the other questions in your post, yes, you will have o bleed the brakes but if you have a soft pedal, you already are past that-(you have air in there now). The little clips would have to be ordered, but the bigger issue is finding the cause of the soft pedal. As Killian said, you probably need calipers. They aren't hard to remove unless the bolts are frozen which is a definate possibility. If you haven't done this before, there is a bit of a learning curve.