TS

Trying to sell my 1982 and have a buyer, but the car will not pass the emissions test. She has sat in the garage for several years and only been driven about 900 miles during that time. She passed in 2002. But failed in 2003 after sitting up for the year. Then failed this week. I ran a full tank of premium unleaded in addition to a product called "Guaranteed to Pass, emissions test formula" over the weekend. She failed again this morning.
At least the Guaranteed to Pass gives double your money back if you fail.

The car is stock all the way and runs great. Does anyone have any suggestions before I have to take her to a shop and run up a huge bill?

Thanks

OK, many have asked how she failed.
Here are the stats...

HC: hydrocarbons 1st test: 1040.. 2nd test: 999 Limit: 220 PPM
CO: carbon monoxide 1st test: 1.76.. 2nd test: 2.13 Limit: 1.2 %.
CO2: 13.43%... no pass or fail requirement.

Any further suggestions?



[Modified by TS, 3:38 PM 2/24/2004]

69stingray

First, drive her a little bit, until the gas tank is 1/4 empty, then refill with fresh gas and a carb cleaner (like STP). Then run her some more. Also, try fresh spark plugs and air cleaner. Finally, verify the timing and all of the EGR lines. A good old fashion tune-up basically.

Desertdawg

I agree.... Do a good tuneup. :thumbs:

71coupe

Make sure the motor is fully warmed up (Drive it for 20 minutes at highway speeds). When you get there, don't shut it off while you fill out the paperwork. More cars fail smog checks just because they not fully up to operating temps.

Good luck :cheers:

stickboy

:iagree: and check for vacuum leaks

Twin_Turbo

It might be usefull to tell what it failed on, HC, CO, NOx,.... ?????

TheSpanish

Try with B extra money... :D

markdtn

:iagree: tuneup, new oxygen sensor?, new air filter. Try to pick a warm day and a time that you don't have to wait. I always like to drive down there in 2nd gear to heat the converter up well. My 83 truck used to fail if the converter got cold. I would drive it hard to the next station and it passed fine.

Eddie 70

Why are you testing it in Tennessee? I have never had to have anything tested. Is this just a Nashville thing?

bigvette1

"It might be usefull to tell what it failed on, HC, CO, NOx,.... ?????"

Before you shotgun lots of parts to sell the car, find out what failed and get back to the forum for advice.

TTop Tony

Eddie unfortunatly in Nashville (Davidson county) they require an emmisions check.

PJO

Warning only do this to pass after return to normal config. On the air pump bypass the control valve so the air pump is feeding air all the time this will cause the cat to run at a higher temp due more oxygen. Should clean up the exhaust to pass. After you pass return it back or the cat may fail due to the high temp. Hope it helps. PJO

82Vette'ster

As said above, what failed. And what kind of emissions test do you have to pass. Is it idle and set speed or a full simulated drive.

Here is Phoenix all C3's have to go through emissions, even a '67 Vette has to pass emissions.

My most common problem areas have been:
1) Oxygen sensor
2) Air pump not getting air to the cat

gliot1

I know a guy who has an modern era Mustang with headers and the cats removed. He always passes. This is his method. Scope out the test station ahead of time for least busy time. He puts in octane booster, then drives on the interstate for at least 10 minutes around 70mph at a higher than normal rpm. He goes to the test station at a time when he doesn't have to wait and idle; basically drives right in. He has always passed. The key is burn up or out all of the foreign particles. Since your car sits a lt, I bet you have a lot of sulfer and unspent gas and carbon deposits in the exhaust system. Being an '82, the mixture is I believe are some what computer controlled. The next best bet would be the O2 sensor. Another wonder formula (I know mecahnics of cars, planes, and boats who have used it with great success for a number of years) is Sea Foam. This can be used in the crank, or the fuel. In your case I would use it in the fuel. It will clean up any and all deposits. If used in the crank you need to change the oil after about 500mi. It is amazing how much crud it will desolve. One of thes mechanics claims any motor he has tore down which has used this is virtually clean.

markdtn

Tony-Not just Nashville (Davidson County) but all the surrounding counties as well-Rutherford, Williamson, Sumner, Wilson, Robertson, Cheatham.

TTop Tony

I didn't know Robertson and Cheatham started emission testing. So much for moving.

Tom454

Your hydrocarbons are way over the limit... according the EPA.. this can mean a vacuum leak as stickboy suggested.

I'm going through the exact same problem with my Silverado as we speak.

I've narrowed it down to intake manifold gaskets by plugging all of the vac ports on the carb. Carb is rebuilt, carb base gasket is tight, throttle shaft is bushed. When I close the choke plate 90%, the engine smooths right out and vacuum rises to the correct reading.... and the exhaust doesn't burn my nose & eyes anymore. So I guess maybe the EPA is right for a change.

Even on CFI... check your vacuum hoses for splits & cracks before you go any further.

I'm doing the intake on my Silverado this weekend. Drudgery.... not looking forward to it.