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I have a 72 Stingray that needs the ring & pinion replaced. I'm thinking of pulling the rear out myself and having it sent out to serviced. How difficult of a job is it to pull the rear out of my 72. Is there anything special about the reinstallation of it.
This is a dirty, knuckle busting job but not a technically difficult one. If you have the 1972 GM Service Manual, it gives a step by step procedure. About the only problem you may have is removing the shock mounts but there is a tool made to that, that is carried by most of the good catalog companies. I would also suggest that you invest in an Assembly Instruction Manual for the parts breakdown. Replace ALL of the rubber bushings, snubbers, etc. When it is all done, find yourself a good alignment shop and get a new alignement.
Gary
Its not hard to remove and install. I did mine by myself.
Get car up on jackstands.
Remove rear tires
Remove rear spring
Undo the driveshaft and half shafts fron diff.
Support diff with jack
Remove differential cross member bolts
Dislodge cross member from frame. This takes plenty of persuasion from a big hammer or prybar.
Remove front differential bushing bolt
The diff and crossmember can now be lowered.
Remove 4 bolts holding diff cover to x-member.
done.
Ship to Bairs for a rebuild.
About the only problem you may have is removing the shock mounts but there is a tool made to that, that is carried by most of the good catalog companies.
My tool for that was a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a cutting disc, kroil and an air hammer.......... Took me 2 days to get them both off... (had to walk away due to frustration.....)
Do not disconnect the driveshaft from the diff. Disconnect the driveshaft at the tranny and pull it all out as 1. It will save you time. Also when you pop the rear crossmember thats mounted to the diff, there will be 2 bolts, 1 on each side, do not leave them out when you use the pry bar. Screw the bolts in a couple of turns, sp when it pops it won't fall to the floor. I would also recommend putting a floor jack under the diff about 3" away from it. After you remove the bolts, lower the floor jack and pull that sucker out. Happy :smash:
It is good practice to mark any "u-joint" yokes in ralation to the shaft. Just a quick mark so you assemble them the same way will do. This will help eliminate any new sources of vibration should you encounter any.
Just a little advice ; When you drop your rear cross-member gohead and replace your rubber bushings (take a big hammer and prybar with you). It's also a good idea to replace your u joint's while your at it. You can also replace your strut rods with the adjustable ones and the alignment shop will love you. I just finished mine and purchased everything from Dan Vansteel super guy and can answer any questions you may have. Dan is having a great sale on rear end part :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Not on the rear end but if you want to get the rear cross=member down to get to rhe bolts it will more than likely take that pry bar. You will need the big hammer and a block of wood to install your new bushings on your cross-member, unless you want to pay a shop about 30 bucks to do it. Straight advice I got from Dan Van Steel him self. :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: