i know they are "imported" but anybody using?? looking at I-beam's think
the are better that re-built GM with new bolts??? looking at 400HP and 6000
rpm as a max, mayby a ocassional 50-75hp hit of NOS (not a haveto just a
maybe) thanks

 

I thought about these when I started my 383 buildup. Cat even sells a 4340 crank also. I asked the speedshop that built my shortblock about them, thinking I might could save a few bucks. The mechanic said he had seen the Cat cranks break in half on more than one occasion. He said it wasn't in the machining, that it was perfect and spec'ed out correctly, but that it was more in the steel itself. The consitent quality of their steel isn't up to par yet. He did say he has saw Cat parts do OK, as he is at the drag strip every weekend, but that it was like gambling. I guess it's a personal choice but I know I won't gamble with the amount of money I have in my buildup. Besides a good set of Eagle SIR rods would fit your bill and they are not that much more expensive. It's just my opinion and I am basing it on what he said, but the man does do this for a living and you can't get a much better place to test parts than at the dragstrip

 

The GM rods are good rods and even better when ARP bolts are used, I have ran my cheapy GM crate eng to 6200 rpm's with about 375 to 400 hp with a stock bottom end and stock bolts. RPMs is what really kills em by stretching the bolts.

If you want to upgrade to an H-beam rod check this company out:
http://ohiocrank.com/html/newproducts.html

 

so i need to polish ,resize, bush for full-float pins, and install ARP bolts ?????
on the stock rods???

 

Prolly buy new if I where going to do all that to them, I am talking more for a budget rebuild where the rods are in good shape and just need a resize and new bolts. If you are going all forged internals then new h-beams would be in order.

 

Check this article out, it will give you an idea of what a stock GM bottom end can take:


http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...n20/index.html

 

thanks for the link ,going to read, iguess i may be stuck with stock rods on this build :banghead:

 

CAT is really the Red Chinese Army. You should purchase these products if you support: Communisim, Slave Labor camps, and the destruction of America. I know I am going to get into trouble for posting this but, I am sick and tired of seeing these products flood our shores! Manley, Lunati, Crower, Ohio Crankshaft and others all make quality connectiong rods right here in the USA. Check out prices at Competition Products, Race Engineering or even go to your local machine shop and make an inquiry. My good friend with a machine shop has a great deal and can be competitve with many of the mail order houses on parts for engines PLUS he has real world feedback from racers that abuse this stuff every week at the circle tracks in the sportsman cars so he knows what holds up and what dosen't. He will not install any CAT Power products in his motors. I have some "Pink" rods with polished beams and new ARP bolts for around $200 if you are really low budget, but please only use them in a hydraulic lifter engine, they are from a 1974 L82 Vette engine that I used the block/crank on but changed the rods because it was a 7000RPM solid lifter motor. I can send you photos of them if your interested. zeohsix2002@hotmail.com

 

Thanks LT1 for the offer, from what i've read the newer rods are a little better
than the "pinks" IF they get the ARP bolts seams the newer GM rods don't
get the little stress cracks as easy, this is what i have picked up from reading
(a bunch) different articals. NOW MY BAD NEWS my crank is a CAT :banghead: i'm not as worried about it braking as i am loosing a rod
i'm going for torque more than RPM with this engine (low rpm) i was wanting
to have a little safety margin in there for a drive-line or other failure :skep:

 

if you mean the powder machined rods? they are nice, and because they are forged from powder they can be manufactured with very close weights. They are stronger than pink rods howeve, drop a rod and it's junk.

 

OH MY!!! so KNOCK will take them out quicker :eek: THANKS