This has probably been covered before but anyway, how do you get the steering to not pull after a rebuild? Mine is pulling to the left and I think the pressure needs to be equalised? Can someone please explain this to me.
Thanks ;)

 

On the end of the power steering control valve is a cap. Pop the cap off to find a screw.

The procedure scares the crap out of me. With the engine running at 1500 RPM VERY carefully adjust the screw. Be sure no body parts are anywhere near the wheels because (apparently) adjusting the screw can cause them to swing violently.

 

I have just been through my entire system - No more leaks! (for the time being). What parts did you replace?

 

hint-
if u wanna lower your odds on loosing a limb... disconnect the cyl at the bracket on the frame. then, set the adj by turning it back and forth until it is centered. most rebuild kits come w/ instructions on proper procedure.

here are some inst i found-

To center the control valve, the piston rod of the slave cylinder must first be disconnected from the frame rail bracket. Then remove the dust cover marked “C” from the end of the control valve to gain access to the adjusting nut.
Start the engine and observe the piston rod movement. If the rod RETRACTS when the engine is started, it will be necessary to turn the adjusting nut CLOCKWISE. If the rod EXTENDS when the engine is started, it will be necessary to turn the adjusting nut COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. Turn the adjusting nut until the piston rod begins to move in the opposite direction. Now turn the adjusting nut in the opposite direction of the last, counting the turns until the piston rod begins to move back in the original direction it did when the engine was first started. Now turn the adjusting nut back in the opposite direction 1/2the total number of turns you counted. If the control valve is properly centered, you should be able to manually push and pull the piston rod in and out of the slave cylinder by hand with the engine running.

hope this helps- good luck- brian

 

The adjusting nut has a torque prevailing feature (i.e. deformed threads, a plastic patch on the threads, a plastic crimp ring on one end). Do not rotate the nut any more than necessary. Most torque prevailing features diminish with more and more rotations of the nut.

 

Thanks for all the replys! I will approach this with caution and hopefully fix it.

Paul ;)

 

Do keep in mind, while adjusting the nut the cylinder's reaction to your adjustment is NOT immediate. Takes a second or two. Oh yeah....this adjustment can be done with the wheels on....but off the ground.
Don't be scared. It's not that bad. Good luck...be safe
Eddie


[Modified by Silvr77, 12:57 PM 3/24/2004]

 

I've done it before and it's no big deal. Just keep your eyes peeled. My control valve was WAY off as far as balance.... and even then, it didn't violently turn the wheels or anything.

It's a very simple procedure. You should have no problems.