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JB, I wish the search function worked better, because I vaguely remember someone mentioning Smog Pump rebuilding a year or so back. Hell, it might have been longer ago than that. What I vaguelyremember about it was that it was very simple to rebuild.
How are things going in your neck of the woods? Any get togethers coming up in the future?
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Smog pump rebuild? (JB)
Rebuild the smog pump ? :lolg: Sounds like a numbers matching problem to me. :lolg:
When I did need a AIR pump I just went to Checker or Pepboys and bought one for $40. Yeh, just picked one at the corner parts store for $40. Ahhhh, sometimes it nice to own a narly shark. :D
JB, remind me to post some useless jackass :lolg: :lolg: crap to the next hot-rod harry highschool Summit Racing post that is made here on the forum :rolleyes:
The Man for AIR pump restoration is Bill Hodel. The last telephone # I could find for him is 330-832-0871.
Excellent, thanks Shannon. I finally got hold of a nice original big block pump (YES, NUMBERS MATCHING!! :D :p: :lolg: What I want to know is why in the heck anyone would pay for a new unmatching one instead of just plugging the holes in the manifold. Oh, yeah, some people don't live in Texas, land of "who the hell needs a smog pump"! :D )
Hey, Steve. Wish I could find that thread you saw. I'd love to find out if it's practical to rebuild one myself. Are you thinking about going to the TCA show in Boerne in April? I'm registered already--it was a hell of a show last year, lots of truly amazing cars (my favorite was a <gasp> Ford--beautiful pristine GT-40). It'd be great if you could make it over! :cheers:
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Re: Smog pump rebuild? (sb69coupe)
JB, remind me to post some useless jackass :lolg: :lolg: crap to the next hot-rod harry highschool Summit Racing post that is made here on the forum :rolleyes:
The Man for AIR pump restoration is Bill Hodel. The last telephone # I could find for him is 330-832-0871.
:cheers: Shannon
The only thing I'd call crap here is some ones sense of humor.
Anyone that has make derogatory accusations because he values something more than others seems a bit adolescent himself. I do not worship car parts and have no reason to verbally (or write) insult another over it. My boasting about cheap car parts is that offending? See a phyc doc cause you need help!
Go to the ncrs site .. do a search. there is a gentleman that does all of the smog stuff and even will set up a correct dated pump. He's a little expensive but when you are the guru...... After I re-read the post. I think it is Bill Hodel as someone already answered
Thanks, guys. I'll give Bill a call, though I'm starting to suspect that when I hear his price, the gutting it thing will start to sound awfully attractive. I assume that even if I gut it, I'm going to have to figure some way to lube the bearings? Anybody have any info on that?
BTW, Bluevetteman, you back out catting around yet?:D
IF a remanufactured on is identical and cheap just buy one and transfer the guts to your case.
Damn, you guys are clever! I have no idea if that's the case, but I'll certainly look into it. I suspect it's not, that the "replacement" pumps are similar in function and mounting but different in other ways, but I'm going to try and find out.
Please post here when you figure out if new parts will retrofit into the old pump housing. I think you're in the $150 neighborhood for a rebuild with Bill - I checked it out last year.
Here is an article that I saved about the AIR system.
The pump itself absorbs very little power - many will, however, eventually seize as the outer edges of the vanes wear and fill the pump cavity with the fibrous vane material; this is usually preceded by increased noise, so at least you'll get advance warning.
The biggest negative of the A.I.R. system is the retarded spark at idle and the original distributor curve, both of which are readily cured with no visible clues. The other negative is the vacuum leak that occurs when the diaphragm in the diverter valve fails (and they all do - they weren't designed to last 30 years), curable by inserting a BB in the signal hose to the valve.
However, when the diverter valve diaphragm fails, the internal spool valve fails full open, so the pump is dumping air into the exhaust manifolds all the time, which results in "popping" from the exhaust on overrun (when the valve was working, it dumped pump outlet air through the little "muffler" on overrun instead of into the manifolds). This can be cured by "gutting" the pump (removing the vanes so it's simply an idler), and the finish on the tubular air manifolds can be protected by removing the fittings at the manifolds, pulling out the insert tubes, and installing a #10x 1/2" flat head machine screw in each cavity before re-installing the air manifolds.
The diverter valves were discontinued many years ago by GM, are not rebuildable or reproduced, and NOS replacements are both rare and VERY expen$ive.