I am using the stock shifter on my '76 4-speed utilizing the bottom holes in the levers to tighten up the throw. While the throw is acceptable, it is not as precise as I would like. I understand the Hurst unit is very precise, but what about the throw? Before I shortened the throw on the stock unit, I was rowing almost the full length of the shifter opening in the consule between 1st and 2nd. I don't want to go back to that!

Is the Hurst what I want, or should I just rebuild what I have?

 

Get the Hurst Competition Plus shifter, the MID YEAR chrome reproduction bolt-on Vette shfter stick (shorter than the C3 version by about 1.5") and enjoy throwing power shifts with a shifter that is bolted directly to your transmission case unlike the factory stocker.There is a slight penalty to pay in noise but, I wouldn't trust my M22 Muncie to anything else but my Hurst shifter. The factory Vette shifter can have problems in high HP applications as it bolts to the crossmember and wil on occasion "lock-up" or "torque shift" as the engine rotates during acceleration. The crossmember mount was put in to solve vibration complaints with the shifter in 1966 as I recall, I say buy a Cadillac if you want a crusier. Make sure and confirm your transmission as a Borg Warner 4 speed when ordering the Hurst as the kits are different as I recall between the Muncie and B-W.


[Modified by Solid LT1, 9:28 AM 3/30/2004]

 

Does the Hurst shifter shorten up the shift gate as compared to stock? Right now that is my only reservation as I want something with a tighter gate and shorter throw.

 

I just put mine in last month, and it's MUCH tighter, just what I was looking for. However, I can't honestly say the throws are shorter, I think probably the same.

-Roy

 

Throw doesn't feel any shorter. Just firmer and the spring loading helps in changes to 3rd. Something the old shifter was notorious at now wanting to do.

 

The throw is definitly shorter.
My old stock shifter used to actually touch the front of the opening, and would wear a hole in the leather shift boot. The Hurst shifter is about 3/4" from the edge of the opening.
Overall travel length of the shifter is at least 1 1/2" shorter than before...at least in my case :steering:

 

I believe you may be missing the main advantage of the Hurst Competition Plus. Stingry touched on it. While the throws may be somewhat shorter than the stock shifter, the main advantage of the Competition Plus over the stock shifter is its ability to go from 2nd to 3rd quickly with little chance of missing a shift or ending up back in 1st. Frankly I believe if you drive one of the early Corvettes with a Competition Plus you will quickly understand its advantages and never want to go back.

The only disadvantage that I can think of is that the Competiton Plus was not stock on the Corvette in these cars. However now that the aftermarket is offering a handle that has the appearance of being stock (some actually like the look of the Hurst handle) that drawback is almost a non issue. Considering what stock shifters are now selling for, you can probably pick up a Competition Plus and the stock looking handle for the same or less.

The Hurst Competition Plus is spring loaded to the 3/4 gate. It must be snapped into the 1/2 gate to shift into 1st gear. Pull straight back into 2nd and simply shove forward and it snaps into 3rd. Again almost impossible to miss a shift. (From the 1/2 gate snap it left again to get to reverse.)

Ironically the 84 Corvette came stock with this type shifter. However the throws are significantly longer than the earlier Hurst was. I believe it is B&M that is offering a short shift kit for this shifter (I have one in my 85) and it reduces the throws substantially.

Go with the Hurst, you won't regret it.

GUSTO

 

Thans for all of the replys. My concern for over the shift throw was because I had the same problem as Doug70vert with the lever hitting the front part of the consule. This is before I shortened the throw.

I have driven Hurst equipped cars and do like the way they shift. Now all I need is a xx% off sale at Jeg's or Summit.

 

Hitting the front of the console is an adjustment problem.

If you add washers under the front of the mounting bracket (between the bracket and the cross member) that the shifter bolts to, it will tilt the shifter back.

There are instructions in the AIM to do this.

Hope this helps.
Terry

 

I have a Hurst shifter with the optional steel bushings - very tight :yesnod:
But the shifter was too far forward for my liking. I had a local welder heat up the lower section that's below the boot & bend it back about 4 inches. Now I don't need to lean forward to go into 3rd. If I can do something with my radio that's too far away
:steering:


[Modified by 71coupe, 4:10 AM 4/2/2004]