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Ever since I bought this car, I've had excessive (~6 inches) pedal travel before the brakes even began to catch and I got any pedal feel at all. Once I was past that point, they were always fine though ... good'n strong. Anyhow, I figured I just needed a new master cylinder ... prob. just blowing past the first seal right? Errrr ... no
I just pulled off the MC, and it looked relatively new. There was no leakage into the booster hole. The bore was clean. The seals were all in good shape, etc.
Sooooo I get in the car, hit the brake pedal, and my partner in crime noticed that the booster rod wasn't even moving until I got past my 6 inches of dead pedal. That can't be right. :confused: Everything appeared to be in order under the dash as far as the pedal to rod linkage. So I have no idea right now. Do I just need to do a LOT of adjustment on the pedal, or did someone install the wrong vacuum booster, or what?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Re: Brake question (wcsinx)
Could it be that maybe someone added a booster to a non PB car. I think there is a difference in the manual and power brake master cylinders. Hopefully someone will chime in and back me on this one.
Could it be that maybe someone added a booster to a non PB car. I think there is a difference in the manual and power brake master cylinders. Hopefully someone will chime in and back me on this one.
Just finished working on a 67 GTO, the 67 had an adjustable rod travel...can the vette's rod be adjusted?
I think the stock clevis/rod has a small amount of adjustment in it, but I can't imagine it being enough to take up that much pedal slack. Then again, I haven't made a thorough inspection of the works under there yet. Maybe Bubba got ahold of an aftermarket unit with a lot of adjustment potential and just spun the clevis all the way down the rod not knowing any better. :confused:
I'll post some pictures this weekend if I can't figure out what's going on here.
There is a possibility of 2 different master cyl's. One has a shallow hole in the piston the other has a deep hole. Remove the master cyl. and push the rod all the way into the booster. if it goes back past the face then you need the shallow piston. if it stick's out about 1" then you need the deep piston.
The wrong master will cause this problum! :)
There is a possibility of 2 different master cyl's. One has a shallow hole in the piston the other has a deep hole. Remove the master cyl. and push the rod all the way into the booster. if it goes back past the face then you need the shallow piston. if it stick's out about 1" then you need the deep piston.
The wrong master will cause this problum! :)
Yeah, I know about the two different MC/Booster styles. Mine is the deep hole, and I have verified that the booster is properly mated to the MC.
To clarify, the rod coming out of the booster which goes to the MC does not move until I push the pedal past ~6" of slack travel. So this says to me that the slack is somewhere between the pedal and the firewall side of the booster. Am I thinking correctly?
You will be surprised how little adjustment will take up the slack...same thing on the GTO, pedal went to the floor, and a 3/4" adjustment in the travel fixed it. I would try adjusting the travel first before pulling appart the MC
You will be surprised how little adjustment will take up the slack...same thing on the GTO, pedal went to the floor, and a 3/4" adjustment in the travel fixed it.
I sure hope that's the case. Hopefully I won't have to pull the booster to adjust it though.
I would try adjusting the travel first before pulling appart the MC
too late :lol: I was convinced that was my problem, before we noticed the rod wasn't moving correctly.