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my son is trying to talk me into adding prolong for my summer oil change, i was wondering if anyone uses it and what they think of it. i usually change the 10w30 i run in the winter(just for garage start /warmups) and dump it in june and go with 20w50 for the summer.
Try not to start the engine during winter storage. It doesn't need to be started and just adds more wear and tear. Change the oil to the normal 10W30 before storage and you'll be all set to go in the spring.
everyone says it is snake oil and myself...i dont use it, but on our 427 race engine in the boat...prostock class..the engine guys used it every season and we only lost 1 engine and that was from an overly lean condition. other than that never lost one..and some crazy stuff happened to that boat. Oh and by race engine a mean 14:1 on alchohol and mechanical fuel injection. it dynoed at 976hp..i can't remember the tq of hand..but either way they swore by it...i personally don't.
Take any of these aftermarket additives and I will use it IF, IF there is verifiable and reproducable laboratory results showing that they work. Why don't ANY of the auto manufacturers from Yugo to McClaren (read that as cheap and ultra-expensive) recommend these additives. Because all they add is a lighter wallet.
Sorry, I don't buy anecdotal stories about neighborhood engine rebuilders, boat racers, drag racers etc. To paraphrase the movie - Show me the numbers! Don't get me wrong, I am happy that your boat team's engine did well but why did it do well? Was it the snake oil or was it someother unknown factor?
99,00,01....1st place in its region which was california, washington, idaho, and the states between. turn8800 rpm at peak. It's possible it doesn't work, but at least I am sue it doesn't hurt. I don't follow the team anymore though since I moved to texas.
Prolong actually has some good properties! I have used it and it helps in high RPM motors, it is a "one time treatment" unlike the snake oils. I would also start the engine during winter storage every few weeks and let it get to temprature to prevent dead valve springs and boil the water that is accumulatng in the cranckcase oil from the humidity of winter. The worst thing you can do is build a motor and let it sit on the engine stand for a year or more before it is started up and put into use unless you rotate the assembly every few weeks to prevent valve springs form weakening from being in a constant compressed state during storage. You need to stmp on our brake pedal every few weeks during winter storage too as the pistons in the calipers will settle and allow air to enter the system. The simple action of stomping on the brake pedal a few times during winter storage will re-float the caliper pistons and keep the seals round (amazing but, TRUE!)
my car hasent been started since i put it in storage in october 2003.
i let it sit the hole winter and it always starts after that.
then i change the oil and filter some additive is just useless junk
Re: anyone using PROLONG oil additive (stingraymaniac)
My Vette gets raced every year and turns 7200 RPM! I would be paying very expensive engine bills if I did'nt follow my advice here. You may have a stock cam L48 cruiser but many here do not. My car runs deep into the 12 second 1/4 mile zone and wins in autoX competition both of which subject the valve gear to serious extended high RPM time. I am just trying to give others some insights on my years of performance engine building. I am sharing some hard learned lessons here and my advice on your brakes is STILL beneficial even for you L48 crusiers!
I've worked in Castrols research lab and specify lubricants in my current job as a mech. engineer. Use these additives under no circumstances. If your using an SAE rated multigrade meeting todays wear and valve train survival tests you'll be fine for anything you can throw at your engine. Most race and high performance engines fail from oil supply issues not an unbalanced additive package.