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my right rear caliper started leaking last year just before i put it away for the winter.have fixed it now
i have read on this forum about this gravity bleeding method.
is that the best approach?
or is this pressure bleed better?
dont care if it takes the hole day,only that i get back that hard pedal!!
Gravity bleeding takes a while, and is the method I preferr...don't have to buy any special bleeders, don't need anyone to pump the brakes, just open teh bleed screws, walk away come back in 5 minutes to check on the fluid reservoir, and check if the bubbles are still bubbling in the little catch jar that the fluid is draining in....once the bubbles stop, I let it bleed a little more, then sighten the screw. Important to replenish the MC with fluid, when down.
Can't tell you what's best but I've just bleeded the brakes for the first time in my life, used the method with one person pumping the brakes and me running around to the calipers, it worked very well and was fast.
But I can't say if the result was really good, the pedal feels kinda hard with the engine off but with the engine on (and the brakeservo on that is) I can push it to be floor. Don't know how long I should be able to push it with the servo on?
It's no problem driving it and the system has no leaks that I know about, so it's no big leaks atleast. But I have to push the pedal far to get good braking effect.
i was out now and bleed the brakes
used the gravity approach it worked well!.
before the pedal hit the floor now its in the middle somewhere
still a little loose so maybe later i get it bleeded another time but now im happy it works again!
before the pedal hit the floor now its in the middle somewhere
Do you have brake-servo in your car?
If so, does the pedal stop in the middle somewhere even with the engine running?
I must learn how to bleed my brakes better, damn this bleeding is a complete science. Everyone has their own method. I even changed all the fluid in the system so all the air should be out, it does no longer come bubbles out of the master cylinder when I hit the pedal but still I can push it to the floor with the engine running.
Have you checked the rotor thickness.
If they are below spec, it never will firm up.
My front pads are ready to be changed, can that be a reason to why I'm having problems with getting a firm pedal?
If I look at one of the front calipers from above I can see the pistons between the pad and the actual caliper, so the pad is pretty worn. But how could that have any effect on the possibility to get a firm pedal?
Sorry stingraymaniac if I keep hijacking your thread on and on :)
Fellow swedes with similar problems :cheers:
My front pads are ready to be changed, can that be a reason to why I'm having problems with getting a firm pedal?:
I've noticed that. When you install new pads and the pistons are pushed back almost all the way in their bores the pedal is firmer.. I'm fabricating some titanium plate to insert behind the pads as they wear. This serves the purpose of pushing the pistons back in the bore to give a firmer pedal and providing a heat barrier.
I am with GDiana that gravity bleading is the least flustrating way. Remove the bleeders and, Just take a break for 10 minutes and its done!
It is imerpative to do it in the proper order, or you may never get a firm pedal. On most cars the rule is farthest to closet to the master cylinder. It is differnet on C3s. Consult the Shop manual.
I've tried every way bleeding possible - gravity bleeding (didn't work), brake pump bleeding (you have to do it several times, never worked well on back brakes for some reason, and hassles with calling wife down to pump the brakes), vacuum bleeding ( bubbles always get pulled in from the screws and I could never tell when bleeding was done), home-made pressure bleeder pumping fluid into the master cylinder (using parts obtained from Home Depot, always leaked fluid all over the place BUT it worked good and quick, just too damn messy).
Last week I ordered a pressure bleeder from Ecklers (a new item they offer) for $65 or so which basically is a bug sprayer attached to a pump. If it doesn't leak like my home made POS it should work great and will be worth every dollar. Pressure bleeding is the way to go.
so whats the procedure with a "pressure bleeder"???
Timbo2
Timbo - With the cheapo pressure bleedor you get for $65 or that you make yourself you put a liter or so of brake fluid in the "bug sprayer"gizmo, the bug sprayer attaches to a master cyclinder cover with a hose, make sure the cover is tightly fitted to the master cylinder top, you open the bleeder and simply pump the bug sprayer and that presses fluid into the cylinder and thus pushes the air out of the bleeder. The pressure build up from the bug sprayer will keep on feeding fluid into the master cylinder so you simply go to the bleeder and wait until the air stops coming out. Repeat process on each bleeder. Some of the guys here use compressors as well.