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The adjustment is made by removing the clevis from the brake peddle, and either turning the clevis clock wise or counterclockwise....this is done by crawling under the dash and removing the clevis pin. I don't think this adjustment is any different on a vehicle equipped with or without the booster. This adjustment determines the length of the rod. I don't think you have to make more than two or three turns.
i would probably want to shorten the rod since the brake pedal gets too tight. No wait I would want to lengthen it to give the brake more play. Yeah thats it. No wait I was right the first time I need to shorten the rod so the brake doesn't top out.
The adjustment is made by removing the clevis from the brake peddle, and either turning the clevis clock wise or counterclockwise....this is done by crawling under the dash and removing the clevis pin. I don't think this adjustment is any different on a vehicle equipped with or without the booster. This adjustment determines the length of the rod. I don't think you have to make more than two or three turns.
That's no different than just turning the push rod itself. Look at the pushrod in my picture. Does it look like there's any adjustment there? If you back the rod out of the clevis at all, then you're going to be loading those threads everytime you hit the pedal which I don't think you want to do with this setup considering there's only 5 threads to begin with. I have seen other cars that were adjustable this way, but they used longer lengths of heavier threaded rod with a lot more engaged threads and/or jam nuts. The C3 setup really does not look at all adjustable on the pedal side to me. Have you actually crawled behind your dash and looked? Because I have. Or are you just talking about your experience with other cars?
edited to add: Ok I guess it IS possible that your pedal side rod has worked it's way partially out of the clevis. That would in effect lengthen the pedal to booster linkage and may inadvertently apply the brakes. So yeah, crawl under there and make sure the rod's hex is firmly seated on the clevis. If not, you don't need to take the clevis loose from the pedal (PITA). You can just turn the hex on the push rod with a wrench. The rod should spin freely inside the booster.
I redid the brakes on my 72 about 5 years ago (the first time) 2 complete sets later I learned the following .... Early C-3's are a Bi*** to bleed. Mine did exactly what your has done and it turned out to be air in the rear lines. It expands with heat and contracts when it cools. The expansion causes the calipers to close and walla drag. They are very difficult to bleed even with a bleeder. Chances are that is your problem. I discovered it the hard way when on a hot day the right rear completely froze while driving at speed ... tried to limp it home and it caught fire. No damage beyond all new gear .. rotor, bearings etc, etc.
Second lesson. After chasing the rebuild for 2 years I discovered (from Vette) magazine the runout solution. After fighting with my mechanic, he finally did what I asked and set the runout, lo ... no more problems. Till this year ... I live in Seattle .. very moist. I don't drive the car in the winter, it's stored in a garage (sorta heated). Seems the fluid is extremely suseptible to absorbing moisture and the moisture eats the seals on most rebuilds. Sooo I've purchased a set of new calipers from Mid America and they go on the car next week. Better work!
Theres so much stuff under my dash I couldn't see anything. I did feel around and it looked (OK felt like) everything lined up. I did find the rod between the master cylinder and power booster. With a little effort I was able to shorten it. I took the car for a short ride (had to mow the lawn) Theres too much play so I'll have to adjust it again but the brakes didn't lock up at any time. I'll know more after driving around this wekeend. I just hope I haven't warped my brand new rotors. :cry Thanks for all teh help. I would never have guessed it was brake pedal adjustment.