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maybe people get tired of your endless posts about little tid bits too :rolleyes: if you don't like it, don't read it...since when are you the one that's in charge of what can be posted here and what not.
If it's overheating after two minutes....I bet they used a Gen V block with a Gen VI or Mark IV head...if that's the case, the water passages will be blocked. Gen V is one of a kind block..nothing interchanges with mark IV and GEn VI. The other think that could be happening is the water hoses could be collapsing if the lower rad hose doesn't have the spring installed.
No Matter How good she looks, you know that some guy out there just got sick of her $H!T!
:lolg: :lolg: :lolg:
Other points:
- I think "Merlin" came from World Products Merlin big block. He had it bored to 522.
- My comment re:boats was refering to the problems with injection and ignition. I didn't realize there was a cooling problem. Perhaps solving one problem will also resolve the other??
I agree with you GDaina, something is not right, no way his bigblock would overheat in 2 minutes if things were right. His so called experts goofed somewhere.
I would love a shot at the car but don't want to spend the money. I would tear it down and reassemble.
I wonder if there is any block filling?? That destroys cooling.
I did notice that they dropped from 10 96 pound injectors to 6.
It is a beautiful car and just needs someone to take the time and find out what is the problem.
Unless Steve could do the work himself it is just a money pit.
I think it just needs a normal hood and Monty's engine :) I'm not crazy about the looks of the engine sticking out. Or to keep it simple as was stated above, just get rid of the blowers and have a modest 700hp ;) I think that would be possible/streetable with fuel injection and timing control.
I wonder if there is any block filling?? That destroys cooling.
Do you mean block filler/block rock .. whatever it's called?? It depends, if you only fill the lower portion of the block cooling won't be affected very much since the majority of the heat is concentrated around the cylinder head and the top 1/3rd or so of the cylinder. I don't think they filled it with that stuff though.
I've never seen the radiator that was put in that car but if it was some kind of standard Big Block type thing I wouldn't be surprised it didn't cool enough, then again 2 minutes is rediculous and you would think that the thing is running way too lean causing the extreme high temperatures. Something's definitely not right there.
It was a non filled "Merlin" tall deck monster block 522 ci The radiator was some custom aluminum unit even bigger than my BeCool unit made for 600 ci and 1000 hp.
I'm talking about 2 minutes of out driving time. Mine had simular problems. My car would climb past 240 if I leave it under load for very long. It's not as bad as it used to be now that I installed lots of race car ideas.
These Daytona front ends have radiator air flow issues!:(
IMO - The problems with Daytona front ends air: Cowl air induction at the rear of the hood is pressurizing the motor compartment. Also air flowing under the car without the aid of a chin spoiler to create a negative air pressure at the back of the radiator impedes flow. Actually it must be creating an air wall to the point of where no air is actually flowing through the radiator. My Spal fans weren't even enough.
So prior to this Version II aluminum air channel my cars cooling ability would decrease with speed even with the best radiator, pump, fans ...... I could not maintain fast lap times or any speed over 100 mph for any period of time. It's the nose design, not just the motor. Merlin's car was the same and before he sold it. I sent all these pictures to him and his shop made something very similar. So the present seller does have my ideas for improved cooling over what Merlin 522 was trying to use.
So I made all the air hitting the front of the car basically has to go through the radiator. This version II has been tested on Bonneville Salt Flats with unofficial timing exceeding 200 mph. My car did not meet the rules for high speed runs
As this picture shows the pan channels all the air
the pan is sealed with silicone and fits above the front nose lip. Sorry about the paint scraps it's only a beer can high off the pavement and it has hit down a few times
that looks exactly like what I'm building, a huge tray that runs from the radiator to the front of the car with 3 seperate sections, 1 for the rad & oil cooler (it's mounted under the rad, same width, it's a stack system) and 2 for the intercoolers. Then I will have 2 holes in the front for brake ducting too.
TT - My first version was made out of .030 or .040 which is what Sprint car big top wings are made out of. It failed the very first test right about 140 mph.
It all comes down to PSI or pounds per square inch. Let's say that it's raming in 1 psi at that speed. My big piece of flat aluminum might have 8 square feet or 1152 sq inches of flat surface area. Thin aluminum can't withstand 1152 pounds of surface force. It bulged down and pulled the front lip out and went it caught air it bent right into the pavement.
So I had a 140 mph high speed grinder eating it away. What a racket!:) So I upped the version II to .060 and used strengthening ribs attached above. Be careful if that ever broke loose and puntured a tire at high speed or ripped off and took out your steering you would be in Deep poopie fast!
it will be fixed to a custom support, since I have to build a new front frame extension to hang the flip front hinge and the intercoolers from, as well as reposition the radiator. It won't be a floating piece of aluminium.