Ok, Im trying to get one of my headlights to line up with the body when in the down position. A forum member directed me that there is a screw to adjust the amount of "down" it goes, then on each side three bolts that you can loosen and wiggle to align the back edge. After a long while of futzing with these side mounts i found no way to get things right. One of the front (towards the bumper) corners was always higher than the other. I was convinced that the whole assembly was bent, or one of the "pegs" (outside of the housing that fits into the bracket with the three screws) bent. I removed the entire assembly. Looks to be straight. What I found was there is a ring (zip calls this a bearing stop) on each one of the pegs and one is missing the set screw that adjusts where this bearing stop sits. Now I can easily enough get the set screw, and get it all back in there, but can someone give me an easy way of working out this alignment. I am thinking that the lack of set screw on one side caused the whole thing to shift, and that is why one corner was high. When I get it back in, what is right order to go in to get it all straight. With all the variables to mess with; each set of three bolts on each side, the set screw on the bearing stop, and the fact the headlight assembly tilts relative to the hoodline as it goes up and down all make this a bear of a geometry problem. Not to mention the confines you have to work in and upsidedown. :smash: suggestions?

BTW Thank God i am planning on repainting the car cuz i did a number on the paint while in this process...dont try this if you have good paint!

 

Grab with your strong arms and give a twist.

 

DollaGreen
These things are a bit of a nightmare when you first look at them, but with a bit of standing back and a few deep breaths you'll get it sorted. All the work I have done is on my 80, so I don't profess to know how similar the design is to your year, but what I've read suggests the system is practically identical throughout the years...

The adjustment is very misunderstood, in my view. A lot of people spout a lot of BS about it, having only read about it and not done it.

First things first....

To get the door to fit flush with the surround, ignore all of the actuating mechanism, in fact its best to do this adjustment with the linkages removed , so you can reach in and out better. This also gives you the chane to grease all the bushes and pivotsin the links.
I'm not saying you cant do the adjustment with the actuator linkage installed, just my experience was much easier without it!

The flushness is dictated ONLY by the pivots of the door, and the spherical bearings that hold them into the headlight surround. Loosen the nuts (three on each side, as you mentioned) and you can move the pivots around and up and down. If you've removed the actuating gear it helps to have a prop of some sort to hold the door in the closed position to check the fit. (It'll drop too far other wise and be a pig to get out) Stick tape around the opening edge, 'cos this adjustment is bound to chip the paint otherwise.. (Sorry, just read a bit further and discovered you'd already chipped it, bad luck mate)

The rings/bearing stops are to stop the door from jiggling left to right, as I'm sure you can see.

Then put the linkage/springs/actuator back in and start her up and raise the light. You adjust the angle which it pops up to with the three screws that hold the rear link pivot (hard to see, up near the back end of the linkage)
With the light locked "up", loosen the screws and shuffle the rear pivot bracket forwards or backwards until the bottom of the plastic lamp bezel is flush with the opening.

Then lower the light. It should be flush everywhere exept for the front edge which you then adjust by turning the stop screw in the rear linkage (the cast alluminium one)
Patience is a virtue here, good luck!
:cheers: