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Looks Good! How did you get the bottom of the fender, by the door not to dielock (swing) into the door? Did you have to modify the bottom of the fender by the door? It looks like with your hinge point, if you rotated the front end, the bottom of the fender would swing against the middle of the door. Hope it works well.
My hat's off to you on a job well done. Blow us away with a short video of that thing in action when your done, eh? Makes 'access to engine' pretty much no problem...
Looks Good! How did you get the bottom of the fender, by the door not to dielock (swing) into the door? Did you have to modify the bottom of the fender by the door? It looks like with your hinge point, if you rotated the front end, the bottom of the fender would swing against the middle of the door. Hope it works well.
Dwayne
:cheers:
Look at the front clip, the lower section of the quarter behind the wheel is cut off, when the front opens, the entire thing hinges up and to the front so when you cut the quarter on the high point (from the point of the door to the wheel well) it will never hit the door.
Looking good. It will really make working on the engine and front suspension easy. You will have to be sure that it is really fastened down or else at high speed it will start to shake giving you the impression that you have a vibration :thumbs: :thumbs:
Looking good. It will really make working on the engine and front suspension easy. You will have to be sure that it is really fastened down or else at high speed it will start to shake giving you the impression that you have a vibration :thumbs: :thumbs:
The hinge mechanism has an interference fit at the end of it's stroke, so when you close the thing it locks itself down pretty tight, that way there's no play ever in the hinge shaft and it won't rattle.
This is much firmer than it ever used to be, I pulled my front clip off in 15 minutes because all the bonding strips were loose and it was only held by 2 short sections just in front of the doors.
The hinge mechanism has an interference fit at the end of it's stroke, so when you close the thing it locks itself down pretty tight, that way there's no play ever in the hinge shaft and it won't rattle.
Well that is the important thing. Any rattle at speed will show up as a vibration and nothing is worst then an anoying vipration at speed. All external gages must be absolutely rigid or you will get the impression of vibration.
Twin Turbo you do nice work, I know you will make it right. Pictures are always good. :thumbs:
Have a nice night :cheers:
What are gages (I don't think you mean gages as in board instruments / english gauges ??)
Yes I mean gages as in board instruments. I have a number of gages that I can not mount inside the car like fuel pressure and unless they are mounted absolutely rigid they will vibrate and every time you look at them you will think the whole car has a problem. My mustang monster tac has a slight vibration and it bugs me .
At high speed you want everything absolutely rigid to give you confidence that everything is as it should be.
Twin Turbo at 130mph or 230 kmh things go by pretty fast, the telephone poles become fence posts and you are running 7 second quarter miles. Things get a little scary so you want the car to be responding perfectly and even the slightest vibration take away from this.
I had a gage that vibrated at 120 and until I made it more rigid I wouldn't take it to 130.
Now I am comfortable at 130 so I will start working on 140.
I won't use the stock gauges and dash, I have a 200MPH autometer speedo and a tach as well as all other gauges that i will use. No mounting under the hood or anything like that.
I have actually driven my c3 at well over 130mph (which is 208 km/h, not 230) I had a 165 mph speedo and it was maxed out but I'm not certain it was still accurate...most likely not.. and I've had a C5 up to 190 or so MPH on the German autobahn, yes things go fast at those speeds :)
I have another philosophy, the more parts you remove the less there's left to rattle and vibrate :D