Had a chance to listen to a couple of Vettes with sidepipes over the weekend....and I love it. Mind you one was a big block (1BAD69). I would love to have my car sound like that. I don't want to put sidepipes on but still looking for that sound. What muffler would come close to that?? Flowmaster? 40s? 50?

Can't afford Borlas and Big Block :lol: All recommendations appreciated.

I know I am :beatdeadhorse:

 

40's are supposed to be deep and throaty...

 

cambered pipes, MidAmerica and Allens have them. I have them on my 73 with headers. Very nice sound but you can hear the radio :lol:

 

I am leaning towards the 40s with H-pipes myself. Does anyone have a part number? Their website doesn't have a catalogue page :confused:

Also, I have 2" pipes, not cats. Should I upgrade to 2.5"? And how much should I expect to pay for this?

Thanks.

 

:iagree: I believe they are called chambered exhaust. I have listened to them on a friend's 77 and they sound like a side exhaust, very slightly muted. They fit in all of the right places underneith so you get great sound and normal looks.
Gary

 

What are you doing tomorrow (Thursday) I'm getting some work done at a friends garage in Mississauga (custom stainless bending) meet me there and I'll introduce you ..... his prices are great.

cell # is in my profile

 

Another Vote for Chmabered pipes. It's difficult to make a Small Block sound like a Big Block much less one w/ side pipes. But Chambered pipes is the closest thing out there. :yesnod:

:cheers:

 

I checked some archive posts on chambered pipes. I think that is the way to go too. Here is a stupid question: there are no mufflers with this system, correct? If so, I would like that. Can't stand looking at those anyway...

With chambered pipes, is the routing still the same? I would love to see some pics plz. Also, pics of rear view of the car would be nice.

75Rag, mississauga is one hr. drive for me, 2 hrs in rush hour. I will have to pass this time, but once I decide what I am going with, I will ask for the shop's number.

 

Routing is the same as normal exhaust. No mufflers dimples in the pipes muffle the sound. Allens and Mid America I have installed both one time from Moid America they were bent wrong but they exchanged them and made it right. I believe they are only made in 2.5 inch so if you are converting from 2 inch to 2.5 you will have to change the heat riser to 2.5 and also front exhaust hanger bracket under the tranny to 2.5 inch. Some folks cut them and reweld them to fit the 2.5 in pipes

 

I have Hooker comp. headers with 3" collectors with reducer on already. Is there a separate system for header applications?

Do you have to weld this system? or just clamps?

Does it include H or X pipe?


[Modified by desi, 4:10 PM 4/28/2004]

 

Chambered is the way to go if you're looking for the side pipe sound. I've got them on my '70 and have nothing but good things to say. :thumbs:

 

Yeah, defintely chambered exhaust, i have them on my 79, and they sound AWESOME!!!! :cool: :cheers:

 

I have dual pipes coming out the side.(Not sidepipes) With a hopped up 350 my two flows, 40s sound outstanding. But I hope you like loud if you go with them. Because they sound like a drag car. Plus I have no cats, who needs em.... :chevy

 

I wish they made a chambered system for my '80 :nonod: So I went with headers, true dual system, and flowmaster deltaflow 40's. It sounds pretty close to a chambered system though. :thumbs:

 

I have decided to go with the chambered pipes after reading all the positive comments about them. So far nothing bad, just maybe a bit loud for some.

Question: I have headers on, what kind of work am I looking at? I was hoping for a simple bolt on.

Part numbers would really help me out. I will be calling MADVette today. Does Summit sell them? I like their service.

 

They look like this.

 

here is a pic of the midam system:


They are designed for the front pipes to bolt onto your stock exhaust manifolds. Your headers reach back quite a bit farther than the stock exhaust manifolds so you will either need to chop up the front pipes provided by MAD (I guess now they are called "MAM") , or fabricate something that will connect your headers to the rear pipes. Definitely not a "bolt-on" package as-is. Mike Allen might make a set for headers. This would include a shorter, different shaped front pipe that will connect the headers to the rear pipe. However, even with a set supposedly designed for headers don't expect them to bolt right up. There are so many different brands and sizes of headers you will likely need to massage the pipes to fit anyway.

The good news is, not having to deal with mufflers should make the entire system a lot easier to install than flowmasters. MJ


[Modified by MNJack, 9:02 AM 4/29/2004]

 

I installed the headers myself too. Had to cut the original pipes out. No problem massaging the system a bit....it's the welding part that I can't do.

Thanks for all the responses guys. Much appreciated. :cheers:

 

How anything that sounds like an aluminum tin can (Flowmaster) can even be compared to a set of sidepipes is beyond me..

 

Here's a tip:

Installing a Chambered Exhaust
Some "lessons I learned:"
1. Wear gloves. The aluminized coating on the new pipes will rub off on everything you touch, making a huge mess. It's far easier to slip gloves on and off rather than to wash your hands every time you need to touch something.
2. The sections are not marked. Even though there's only three sections for each side (plus tips), you'll be amazed at the Chinese jigsaw puzzle possibilities. Carefully align them on the ground next to your old system to ensure you get each part where it's supposed to be.
3. Use a file and smooth all the pipe edges. It'll make them slip inside each other and turn much easier during alignment.
4. The center exhaust hanger bracket on the back of the tranny is designed to hold 2" pipes. So you'll need to change/modify it just a bit to allow the 2 1/2" pipes to align through the holes in the frame. This modification is important, because you don't want the pipes to touch the frame, or they'll rattle. You can buy a bracket designed for 2 1/2" pipes (Corvette Central part 323078 for $39.00, 1-800-345-4122), or do what I did: Remove it (2 bolts), get a good cutting wheel and cut 1/4" off along the top of the bracket, and elongate (deepen) the bolt slots also 1/4". This will allow the bracket to mount 1/4" higher, and will align the new pipes to hang perfectly through the center of the frame holes.
5. Turn all the U pipe clamps sideways before tightening, instead of having the nuts on the bottom/straight down. You'll inevitably scrape bottom once and a while, and if the bolts/nuts are pointed straight down, they'll bend or gouge the threads. Turning the brackets sideways will give you another 1/2" ground clearance, and save your clamps.
6. The stock turn downs that come with the kit are a bit ugly. I found some cool 2 1/2" chrome flared turn downs at a local muffler shop (cheap too, about $10 ea.), and had them install them (see next item).
7. Even though you think you did a great job, after installing, take the car to your local muffler shop and let them tweak and adjust the pipes so they are perfectly aligned. It's amazing what the right tools and experience can do. I stood behind and under the car and "directed" (a little left, little more, back, .....) I then had them tack weld each joint, so the pipes will stay aligned. They also installed and tack welded the tips on for me. Do this right away, and it'll be easy for the shop to adjust the pipes (before any corrosion sets in). Only cost me 1/2 hour labor.
8. Lastly, use a stainless steel hose clamp on the turn downs, to mount to the rear hanger bracket, instead of the stock U clamp. You'll be amazed how much cleaner the pipes look without a huge U clamp hangin' visibly in the rear.

It's really quite easy, and well worth it! Enjoy.
Dave