Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 43
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From: bethlehem pa
Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976
I've recieved some information on replacing the #4 mount in the past, I need a little more please and I do need to replace it now.
(1) I understand I have to loosen the #3 mount, how hard is it to get to? Any tricks to doing so?
(2) It was suggested that replace the mount attached to the body, which I will be doing.
(3) I am told that I have to raise the body about 3" to replace #4. Where would be a safe place to jack in order to raise the body that far? (I don't have a hoist!)
(4) Will it be possiable to replace the #3 mount at the same time?
Note: The #4 Right side is in not rotted away, so the body appears not to be sagging at thsi point. Due to this will I still need to raise the body 3"?
(1) I understand I have to loosen the #3 mount, how hard is it to get to? Any tricks to doing so?
(2) It was suggested that replace the mount attached to the body, which I will be doing.
(3) I am told that I have to raise the body about 3" to replace #4. Where would be a safe place to jack in order to raise the body that far? (I don't have a hoist!)
(4) Will it be possiable to replace the #3 mount at the same time?
Note: The #4 Right side is in not rotted away, so the body appears not to be sagging at thsi point. Due to this will I still need to raise the body 3"?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (76greenlar)
First, I would not try getting the #3 loose. There is enough flex in the rear
clip to allow removing the #4 with the others in place.
If you want to be tortured, then there is a small panel in the front of the
rear wheel well that is removed with 4 screws. This gives you just about enough
room to get one click on a ratchet. If the bolt comes loose you are lucky.
These are usually the second rustiest body bolts.
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/images/r...me_drivers.JPG
Another tip that seems popular ...
When doing the #4 - the cage nut will likely be rusted firmly to the bolt.
Cut the head of the bolt from the bottom with a grinder. Then, take out
the nut cage (since you are doing the outer reinforcement, too. When putting
back together, insert the bolt from the top with a washer, and install the nut
at the bottom. I will be starting this job on my body this weekend. I plan on
using 3/16" stainless steel pop rivets. I have some of the stock aluminum
rivets. They will be a pain to get on good in this area.
http://webpages.charter.net/davekimt...t_grinding.jpg
:seeya
[Modified by NHvette, 11:26 AM 5/11/2004]
[Modified by NHvette, 11:28 AM 5/11/2004]
[Modified by NHvette, 7:07 PM 5/11/2004]
clip to allow removing the #4 with the others in place.
If you want to be tortured, then there is a small panel in the front of the
rear wheel well that is removed with 4 screws. This gives you just about enough
room to get one click on a ratchet. If the bolt comes loose you are lucky.
These are usually the second rustiest body bolts.
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/images/r...me_drivers.JPG
Another tip that seems popular ...
When doing the #4 - the cage nut will likely be rusted firmly to the bolt.
Cut the head of the bolt from the bottom with a grinder. Then, take out
the nut cage (since you are doing the outer reinforcement, too. When putting
back together, insert the bolt from the top with a washer, and install the nut
at the bottom. I will be starting this job on my body this weekend. I plan on
using 3/16" stainless steel pop rivets. I have some of the stock aluminum
rivets. They will be a pain to get on good in this area.
http://webpages.charter.net/davekimt...t_grinding.jpg
:seeya
[Modified by NHvette, 11:26 AM 5/11/2004]
[Modified by NHvette, 11:28 AM 5/11/2004]
[Modified by NHvette, 7:07 PM 5/11/2004]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,050
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (76greenlar)
I've recieved some information on replacing the #4 mount in the past, I need a little more please and I do need to replace it now.
(1) I understand I have to loosen the #3 mount, how hard is it to get to? Any tricks to doing so?
(2) It was suggested that replace the mount attached to the body, which I will be doing.
(3) I am told that I have to raise the body about 3" to replace #4. Where would be a safe place to jack in order to raise the body that far? (I don't have a hoist!)
(4) Will it be possiable to replace the #3 mount at the same time?
Note: The #4 Right side is in not rotted away, so the body appears not to be sagging at thsi point. Due to this will I still need to raise the body 3"?
(1) I understand I have to loosen the #3 mount, how hard is it to get to? Any tricks to doing so?
(2) It was suggested that replace the mount attached to the body, which I will be doing.
(3) I am told that I have to raise the body about 3" to replace #4. Where would be a safe place to jack in order to raise the body that far? (I don't have a hoist!)
(4) Will it be possiable to replace the #3 mount at the same time?
Note: The #4 Right side is in not rotted away, so the body appears not to be sagging at thsi point. Due to this will I still need to raise the body 3"?
As a general rule, spread the lifting force over a wide area to avoid damage to the under body.
I had problems removing the #3 body mount bolt, be sure to use LOTS of PB Blaster etc on the bolts before attempting to remove them.
In addition, often all is not what it seems. You run into unexpected problems. I ended up with a body off - so I could get to that #3 bolt (the cage nut had "spun" and the bolt had to be cut).
In retrospect I should have removed the body first - not that big a deal and with the body off, engine, suspension, etc work is MUCH easier. Lesson Learned :yesnod:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (NHvette)
Larry, I just re-read the post and realized that your big problem is going to be
the rear bumper. The bumper cover is attached to the fiberglass of the rear
clip. It is also held on to the frame via the taillight brackets and steel bumper.
If you don't get the bumper cover loose from one of these, lifting the body up
at all will rip the urethane cover ... assuming no-one has replaced with a fiberglass cover.
BTW - You'll only need to lift the corner up enough to get the mount in place.
3" is ample room IMO. A helper lifting up on the fender lip may be enough
to get the mount in place.
Do you have any pictures of what it looks like now ?
:seeya
[Modified by NHvette, 7:15 PM 5/11/2004]
the rear bumper. The bumper cover is attached to the fiberglass of the rear
clip. It is also held on to the frame via the taillight brackets and steel bumper.
If you don't get the bumper cover loose from one of these, lifting the body up
at all will rip the urethane cover ... assuming no-one has replaced with a fiberglass cover.
BTW - You'll only need to lift the corner up enough to get the mount in place.
3" is ample room IMO. A helper lifting up on the fender lip may be enough
to get the mount in place.
Do you have any pictures of what it looks like now ?
:seeya
[Modified by NHvette, 7:15 PM 5/11/2004]
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 21,457
Likes: 463
From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (NHvette)
Just did this to my '75 and they came out great. DID NOT loosen #3 mount bolts at all. I carefully(I SAID CAREFULLY)lifted the rear body portion with a 3/4" narrow piece of plywood under that ledge of fiberglass that is beneath the vertical rear bulkhead. I also patiently cut(what was left of)the rubber part of the cushion, exposing one rusty bolt. I just simply took Mr. SawsAll and let him do a few minutes work and he sliced right through that pesky, rusty bolt. That tool is a must for C3 ownership :lolg: I then refastened the body mount with correct size pop rivets going IN instead of OUT like the factory(but, hey, my way looks neater & cleaner :p: ). Actually, they came out BEAUTIFUL-probably the nicest part of my '75 :lolg:
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 202
From: Waterford Mi
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (Paul Borowski)
You can cheat and not remove anything but the #4 mounts by cutting a slot out of the frame flange to allow you to slide the new mount in place form the side.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 43
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From: bethlehem pa
Re: Replacing #4 Body Mount 1976 (76greenlar)
Guys thanks for all the help!!!! First time owner, so I have a learning curve! Time to order the parts I will keep you posted as to how it works out. As soon as I can I will post a picture of my baby. The car is said to be a survior by the preson I bought it from. Later I may have it judged to find out how truthful the guy was. Thanks again.
