While we're on the subject of wheel bearings and since I don't want to trail off the discussion in Zog's forum, so I'll ask here:

In the service manuals, they recommend re-packing wheel bearings every so many miles. I just bought the car and want to make sure everything is lubed up correctly. What is involved? Is it as extensive work as the guys are describing for replacing the bearings? Is it something I should try to tackle myself or send out.

If it requires special tools or a machinist, I've got all the resources I need here at work.

 

Disregard the question. It's already been answered for me.

thanks NHvette :cheers:

 

good, then you can share it with the rest of us. i think i should do this myself. thanks.

 

It's very easy and demands no special tools. Put a glob of grease on the heel of your hand. Smack and rotate the bearing rollers against the grease glob until you see grease ooze through the inner side of the bearing. Rotate all the way around the bearing until it is all packed.

 

replacing them is easy too. I just did mine this past weekend. about $45 for Timken bearings and seals at Autozone.
Take the wheel off, remove the caliper, (use block of wood to keep pistons from popping out) leave hose attached, hang caliper to the side.
Remove grease cover, pull cotter pin, remove nut.
pull off hub/rotor assembly, the outer bearing will fall out or can be pulled out with fingers.
Turn hub/rotor over, pry out seal, pop out bearing.
Clean out old grease so you can see inside better. clean old grease off spindle. Put some new grease on spindle. Drive out old inner and outer races with a punch and hammer.
Install new races, tap in evenly with hammer on block of wood or socket. You can use the old race turned upside down on the outer, but be careful on the inner becuase if you use it to completely seat the new race, the old one will get stuck.
Pack the new bearings as indicated above, rear first, install seal, slide hub/rotor assembly on spindle. Pack outer bearing , place bearing on spindle, slide into hub.
Replace washer, torque nut to 12 ftlbs. while turning rotor. Back nut off then retighten hand tight while turning. This resulted in no play and no binding. If necessary back nut off to align with cotter pin hole, should not be more than 1/6 turn. Reinstall grease cover, caliper and wheel. You're done, go drive it! :steering: