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Well, I took the car in for an alignment because it is darty on the road. They started looking at the car and it quickly became apparent something was wrong. Long story short, the pass side wheelbase is shorter by an inch. I'm not too surprised because there is evidence of an accident. Anyway, can anyone give me an idea what the frame shops would charge for pulling the frame? Also, does the front fiberglass have to come off? I looked through the archives, and didn't find any information about people actually straightening their frames. Lots of info on repairing sections, but not straightening. Any help at this point is appreciated.
Thanks
Ken
PS This makes it a little clearer why the previous owner sold after six months. It's very hard for me to believe someone would sell the car and not say something. However, he gave me receipts for ball joint replacement, and bushing replacements. I'm guessing that's when he found out. :mad
not sure on price,but they may be able to get the car to track straight if they
spend a little time at it... drag cars offset 1" for roll-out and go straight
Now, you get together with Mr D.
He is looking at a 69 in PA. He wants the body ... plans on selling the rolling chassis.
The EBay ad claims that it is a TX car ... solid frame. Who knows on Ebay.
Good body shops will have a frame machine. I would think the loosening
the body mounts would suffice ... but maybe there is more involved.
You should look for a local shop to give their opinion.
Thanks for the heads up. I have started inquiring about rolling chassis in the area. It may be the way I go. It would be great if two of us could find a car with the parts we needed. However, I would like to get some ideas about pulling the frame. I am going to call some of the local Vette shops.
I just talked with one local Vette place, they are saying between $1000 and $1500 to straighten the frame. It sounds like a rolling chassis is the better idea.
It may not be the frame - you could have a bent A-frame. Especially if someone replaced the bushings and did it wrong. I'd check both the upper and lower A-frames on the side that's set back. That might not be the problem, but A-frames are a lot cheaper than frame-straightening.
I'd look around more unless you have tons of cash sitting around. I've seen shops in our area that will "pull" a frame for a couple of hundred (around 10 years ago). If you can bring the specs for the frame in (back of shop manual) somene should be able to loosen the body mounts and at least take a shot at getting it straight. It involves wrapping chains around key points in the frame and pulling with big hydraulic machines. You might be able to enjoy driving it more while you save for the new frame...
(I just talked with one local Vette place, they are saying between $1000 and $1500 to straighten the frame. It sounds like a rolling chassis is the better idea.)
Wow, depending on how bad the frame is I would say between $350 to $500.
I would measure from your ball joint to a hole in your frame to make sure it is not a lower control arm. Do both sides and compare measurements. Most llikely it is sucked in behind the control arm. They wil need to tie the car down and pull it back out. Most of the time it takes a couple of hours or depending on who and how it could take all day.
Find A good Frame shop to do the work. I Myself wouldnt take it to a vette shop( Price gouge), Because it is a vette.
Wow, wish I had sold my '68 frame/rolling chassis in Canada! I asked and got 1,650.00 for it and was happy. I have another complete rolling chassis from a '70----should I advertise in the great north? G.
From: If the world didnt suck, we would all fall off. Troy,Ohio.
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08
Re: Frame bent...now what? (NHvette)
Now, you get together with Mr D.
He is looking at a 69 in PA. He wants the body ... plans on selling the rolling chassis.
The EBay ad claims that it is a TX car ... solid frame. Who knows on Ebay.
Good body shops will have a frame machine. I would think the loosening
the body mounts would suffice ... but maybe there is more involved.
You should look for a local shop to give their opinion.
I hadn't thought about the a-arm. I will take a look at that. One thing that made us think the frame, was that on one side the bodywork is tucked up very close to the frame (on the underside) and several inches away on the pass side. Also, I have seen signs of an accident: pass side headlight bucket is fiberglass with no holes for washers; new shims under radiator support; new shims behind a-arm crossshaft; poor hood fit; grilles don't line up. All of these are things I was not aware of when I bought the car. This is my first Vette and first old car. I was definitely blinded by the excitement. And, I didn't find this site until AFTER I bought the car.
I am also going to call some basic frame shops. I do believe the Vette place is charging excessively. I had a fender pulled on a unibody car for under $200 back in college. The key will be providing the frame information.
Thanks. I believe I saw that the specs are on the FAQ page as well. Hopefully, I'll get this done and the car will handle much better. I was not to unhappy before, so I'm optimistic about how it will feel when actually straight.