my heater/blower motor is not working INTERMINTANTLY...
i hate intermintant problems! :mad

i know the motor IS working at low speed...you know, the speed at which it is always on...?
but it dosnt speed up when i use the switch...
this started about 2 weeks ago but about 1 week ago it "magicly" started working again, all on its own...now it has stopped again...

i stopped at a parts store the other day and was allowed to take a relay out to the car and "try" it...it didnt help...still no fan...

its gettin hot as hell here and i want my A/C! :cry

any ideas???

 

I'd jump a hot 12V wire to the blower motor and see if the motor is working. Then, if it is work backwards to find the problem. Our mini-van has a high speed relay AND a low speed relay. One time the connector at the resistor melted and I had an intermittant problem. Also check for an 'in line fuse like the earlier cars have. I don't know about those "newer" cars with all of the electronics. :lol: :lol:

 

hi Larry! hope your feelin better... :)
as i stated...the motor IS workin...
i have "messed around" with the wiring around the relay and motor area with the key and the blower motor switch on and didnt see anything strange nor did the motor come on while wiggling wires and things...
everything seems normal...
i cant find any inline fuses anywhere...
you mention more than one relay...do i have more than one?
also...when i say "intermintant"...i dont mean that it runs for a few minutes and then dosnt for a few minutes...
it didnt work for a few days a couple weeks ago and then it started workin last week for a few days...now it has stopped again and hasnt worked again for 2 or 3 days now...
thanx for your input...any other ideas?

 

I know what you are going through. Let me think about it for a while.

 

check your speed selection switch for burned contacts.
Check your wiring diagram for a separate circuit for high speed from the horn relay.
For max fan speed, make sure your ground lug/wire connection is tight and corrosion free.
For max air, duct tape a 1" hose to your shop vac and snake it down the cowl air intake and vacuum out all the leaves and crud that is probably blocking your evaporator core.


[Modified by flynhi, 8:21 AM 5/23/2004]

 

Sign, I forget if you have a early or late shark....but on the sharks there is a white inline fuse holder with a heavy orange wire to one end, forget the end color going to the horn relay on driver's fender....at any rate that 30 amp fuse is the high speed fuse....I have to assume ALL lower speeds are working....so there is also a fuse near the steering inside under....both of them have to be good....

assuming the fuses are good, you may try voltages around the speed resistors, on top of the a/c housing....the blower relay is on the housing just above the exhaust manifold...

check the ground connections also with a DVM....

wipers work??? maybe that pesky ground wire everyone connects to the 12+ bat of the starter....i'ts heavy black 10 ga wire with 3/8 loop on it....that goes under a starter or bellhousing bolt to ground the blower/wiper/wiper hi speed relay....

IF you have a later shark, you also have to add in the plastic speed switch and it's under console connectors, that entire cheap assed plastic crap setup is near terminal in every late shark I have ever seen.....and the wiring is even worse....constantly pulling and breaking something, like the air temp cable....worse yet....

GENE

 

"check your speed selection switch for burned contacts."
well...NONE of my low/med/high speeds work so i figured that it is not that because they would ALL have to be corroded...maybe im wrong about that tho...
my motor DOES spin with the key on tho which tells me that it is working...

"Check your wiring diagram for a separate circuit for high speed from the horn relay."
i did that and could find nothing although i admitt that i have a hard time reading those...

"For max fan speed, make sure your ground lug/wire connection is tight and corrosion free."
i will check that out...altho the motor does work so im not sure that is it...

"For max air, duct tape a 1" hose to your shop vac and snake it down the cowl air intake and vacuum out all the leaves and crud that is probably blocking your evaporator core."
within the last year i have totaly disassembled that whole area and cleaned it out as well as replacing the fan motor...
my car is always garage kept when not being driven also so that is not an issue...

it should also be noted that my car has been "converted" for florida use...
ie...i have no heater, it is completly bypassed...
i have also done the conversion to "always max a/c"...ie, duct doors removed and/or sealed shut etc...
the only function that is hooked up on my console control is that i either have nothing or "max" a/c...
all other vac lines are plugged and the cold/hot cable has been disconnected etc...

thanx for your input...

 

OK, Sign, you did the same things I have, but that white inline fuse holder, maybe they changed or someone changed it to another style, I know I did due to the olde tyme fuse constantly getting hot and nuisence blowing....
due to bad contacts...that and the contacts on the hi speed relay OR the plug on the relay being corroded....Still sounds like a bad connection somewhere, and I found ALL the spots we covered at one time or another to be troublesome on my '72 here.....

ain't old cars FUN??? having FUN YET???

GENE :D :reddevil :banghead:

 

"Sign, I forget if you have a early or late shark"
i have a 79...

"on the sharks there is a white inline fuse holder with a heavy orange wire to one end, forget the end color going to the horn relay on driver's fender....at any rate that 30 amp fuse is the high speed fuse"
i looked for that orange wire that you told me about the other day and could not find it, nor could i find an inline fuse...
i DID find a small orange wire going to the bottom plug on the relay tho???
there is a horn relay on the DS fender?

"I have to assume ALL lower speeds are working....so there is also a fuse near the steering inside under....both of them have to be good"
NO...the only speed that works is the slow speed that is always on...
low/med/high does not work...

"assuming the fuses are good, you may try voltages around the speed resistors, on top of the a/c housing"
i dont know how to do that correctly but i have a freind that does...i will ask him to help me...

"the blower relay is on the housing just above the exhaust manifold"
on the firewall...right?

check the ground connections also with a DVM....
the ground that comes off the lower plug on the relay is a new one..grounded to the engine block when we built the engine...
i will check the one coming off the blower motor but i assume that its OK since the motor works at the slow speed...???

"wipers work???"
yes...

"maybe that pesky ground wire everyone connects to the 12+ bat of the starter....i'ts heavy black 10 ga wire with 3/8 loop on it....that goes under a starter or bellhousing bolt to ground the blower/wiper/wiper hi speed relay"
i will check that...

"IF you have a later shark, you also have to add in the plastic speed switch and it's under console connectors, that entire cheap assed plastic crap setup is near terminal in every late shark I have ever seen.....and the wiring is even worse....constantly pulling and breaking something, like the air temp cable....worse yet....
i am wondering about that myself and think that it does need to be checked...
monday while im at the shop...

thanx Gene...after reading this, do you have any other ideas?

 

"OK, Sign, you did the same things I have"
yup...only way to fly! especialy here in florida...

"but that white inline fuse holder, maybe they changed or someone changed it to another style, I know I did due to the olde tyme fuse constantly getting hot and nuisence blowing"
where EXACTLY is that?

"due to bad contacts...that and the contacts on the hi speed relay OR the plug on the relay being corroded"
new relay (less than 1 year) and great/clean connections too...

"Still sounds like a bad connection somewhere, and I found ALL the spots we covered at one time or another to be troublesome on my '72 here"
i agree....just that finding that bugger is pissin me off!

"ain't old cars FUN??? having FUN YET???"
OH YA!
thanx again Gene!





[Modified by SIGNGUY, 11:28 AM 5/23/2004]

 

TTT...anybody else got any ideas?

 

Sign, God bless you man, if your under dash fuse is good, and I think it is or the motor would never run at all......?? I suspect your plactic fantastic switch or switches on the controll panel/console are bad/burnt/corroded, and it may be just the connector....it's crazy and like I commented before a reall PIA assy to mess with, get set for some frustrating times with that damn cheap plastic, and wait untill you see the slip cable putting too much stress on that assy, breaking it all up.....

been into about 6 of those later shark consoles, hate them.....

GENE

 

there is a fuse on my 73 behind the washer bottle for the high speed only ,,i dont know if your year has that---

 

mrvette you have mail sounds like my problem

 

thank you Gene AND Carl...
i will check out both of those things...ASAP

 

I too have had probelms, but my air works. The problem I have is that the wiring to the relay( on the firewall - above the blower other an the next to the hood latch) gets so hot you can fry on egg on it!!! I replace that, the heater blower switch on the console and the capacitor on the blower motor. It still heats up that I am afraid it might catch fire. Needless to say, I dont use the air. Any ideas?