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As you can see having no engine, headers, or tranny to get in your way it felt like cheating :lolg:
It took an hour or two and it looks great. Next step is taking it to the body shot, geting the engine bay sand blasted and the windshield frame replaced (we tryed pressure washing it, didn't do much) which my dad will be doing this week because I will be in N Carolina flying all week (air force crap). Looking forward to steering!
One Q tho, I asked Steeroids about if I had NO power steering, they said just dont hook it up, but its labeled "Power Kit", came with hoses + instructions, is this a concern? Or is it as they say just dont hook it up and I'll be good to go? Thanks in advance :cheers:
You will need to connect the pressure port to the return port on the gear. This will allow any power steering fluid inside the gear to freely circulate back and forth. If you just plug the ports you can build pressure inside the gear and it could affect steering effort or gear returnability. Also, it is probably good that you leave some fluid inside the gear to keep the rack piston and valve lubricated and avoid corrosion.
HUMMM....with ~2.7 turns 12:1 ratio, you get that engine in there, and no power assist in a parking lot, you name better be Armstrong Schwartznegger, or you in trouble man.....
thanks for the advice, will do. And yes, I am Arnold :rofl:
No seriously though I think It's just a matter of getting used to it. You're using muscles differently than you have before (rotationally) and once you build them up in that manner it wont be bad at all. I know lots of old farts that drive NPS cars they dont want to sell, all the time and they're really small and weak old men :lol:
EDIT: Sorry on the late reply I was on a mission in North Carolina the past two days
I just finished installing Steeroids this spring on my non power 68. I bought a pump, but I have not installed it yet because the pulley hits the frame.
I am driving it, and it isn't too bad. I wouldn't want to parallel park it though. I think it is harder to turn at low/no speed than a standard non power car. It isn't a big deal though. When you are rolling it is great.
I just have the ports plugged, but I like Jim's comment about hooking the two together. The turn back is one thing I don't like very well. I think hooking the power up will smooth it out.
which one is that? the drivers side or the passanger side? My kit was delayed a week because of a bracket being recalled. Was anyone haveing problems?
That is the bracket on the drivers side It looks like they changed the position of the spherical end to a higher position and corrected the angel. Mine is wearing a grove it the double d shaft. Not to mention the upper joint binds when you turn the wheel.
ah gotcha, yeah I'd definently give them a call and ask about the recall if you cant correct the binding. I dont know if I have binding yet as the previous owner has yet to find the key and the steering wheels locked :banghead: :shocked:
BTW
Photo 16 - it sure looks like you have too much of an angle where the double universal joint attaches to the steering column. I know that it is fairly difficult to draw conclusions on joint angles from a photograph, but the angle looks too severe to me!
I would judgeh that it appears as though shortening the steering column shaft (by 1/2 inch or so), would improve the angle. I think you want to have fairly equal angles on both sides of the double universal joint.
You should be able to just compress the steering shaft that 1/2 inch or so with no ill affects to your steering. (You might want to try and remove some of the 30 years of accumulated rust on the steering column shaft before pushing it back through the lower steering column bearing.)
BTW
Photo 16 - it sure looks like you have too much of an angle where the double universal joint attaches to the steering column. I know that it is fairly difficult to draw conclusions on joint angles from a photograph, but the angle looks too severe to me!
I would judgeh that it appears as though shortening the steering column shaft (by 1/2 inch or so), would improve the angle. I think you want to have fairly equal angles on both sides of the double universal joint.
You should be able to just compress the steering shaft that 1/2 inch or so with no ill affects to your steering. (You might want to try and remove some of the 30 years of accumulated rust on the steering column shaft before pushing it back through the lower steering column bearing.)
Good luck,
Jim
:iagree:
(from the pictures above)
If you lengthen the intermediate shaft and shorten the steering shaft your problems will go away. the angles of the two jints should be as equal as possible. Right now you have one doing all the work...:U
Thanks for the tips. Most of them are only hand tight because i dont want to set anything in stone and have to change it when i get the engine + headers in. How ever i think i did use that thread lock stuff on the top of the double U joint to the steering column :banghead: how hard will this be to undo?? :(
Only one way to find out!
But it should be possible...
Another thing to remember ( I don't know if Steeroids passes this info on or not) is that the shaft shold NEVER stick out into the middle of the ujoint. this will cause the ujoint to bind and fail.
snip---
How ever i think i did use that thread lock stuff on the top of the double U joint to the steering column :banghead: how hard will this be to undo?? :(