I was talking to my bro-in-law in CA and he said he has some late 60s double hump 2.02 heads laying around that he is going to send me. I was going to drop $900+ on some aftermarket alum heads but since these are free, I mine as well get them and drop them on my 72 350. Since I have 76cc smog heads now, life can only get better. He said they don't have accessory holes in them for alt bracket, so I am assuming I can take these to any decent machine shop here in town and have them drilled and tapped. And since I have to take them in shouldn't I have them port them for better flow. Anyone in Austin, Tx recommend a good machine shop to do this?

 

Cool....What are the casting numbers.

 

Sell them on Ebay and use the money to buy good heads. They don't have hardened seats which will cost $200+ to install. They don't have accessory holes and you are drilling/tapping into a water jacket to get them. Assuming they are still rebuildable, you will need valve guides. They don't flow as well as out-of-the box Vortec heads. Sell these dinasaurs to an NCRS type and buy some new Vortecs for less money than building these. My .02


[Modified by markdtn, 2:11 PM 5/24/2004]

 

To maximize the 'free' factor sink as little $ into them as you can, once you start trying to get them to flow better you are going to be spending close to what a new set of better flowing heads costs with better combustion chambers costs.

 

He is supposed to email the casting # to me. Then I will really know what I am working with.

 

:iagree: Dont dump a bunch of money in them and still come up short on performance,sell them to a collector and buy a set of Vortecs or better.

 

don't drill and tap those heads!!

Companies like Zoop's and March make brackets to mount everything without using head bolt holes.
Look at March for their mounting kits. It may seem expensive, but it will be a hell of a lot easier than maybe getting the holes correct in the head. And even if they get the holes right, you've trashed some of the value on those heads. Restorer's have wet dreams about getting some of those without the holes in them.
Better yet, e-bay them and mount up some aluminum vortec heads or aluminum twist flows.

 

I also suggest you spend the money on a good set of new heads.
It'd be cheaper to get a new set of state of the art heads, versus having those heads comlpetely reworked, but some machine shops would "forget" to mention that fact.
I have an old non-matching set of stock castings that I've held onto for a couple of years. I'm gonna use them to practice porting on, eventually. They aren't worth any performance, and too much machining needs to be done to them.

 

i have access to two sets of these heads and have done nothing with them. perhaps e-bay is the way to go. i would sell them and get some decent modern heads. more than one set of these has been screwed up by trying to tap in accessory holes. if the machine shop screws up you got nothing.

 

:iagree:

They also have small runners. Go after market, better product and not alot of cost.

 

I agree with many others on most points. They are decent heads but not worth dumping tons of money into. I purchased a new set of vortec heads for $400, which included shipping. Just because they are 'free' does not mean you are getting a great deal. Since they have no holes drilled into them for mounting accessories, they were not on a factory car, which would diminish their value from a collector's standpoint. There is chance that they were used in an off road application, which means they may have had some additional work to them. If that is the case, it will save you the expense of porting.
No matter how you look at it, it's going to cost some money. You'll have to pay to ship them, send them to a machine shop to get magnafluxed, and to get an estimate on what it will cost to make them useable (valves/seats reground and valve guide, holes drilled).
There are a lot of a-holes out there that will buy them on E-Bay. All they know is that the double humps performed great, but that was 30 years ago and today's heads are much better. One man's junk is another man's treasure.
The heads should work fine on a street engine and be an improvement over what you currently have. The other good thing about them versus the vortec's is that you can use your existing intake. If you’re planning to buy a new intake then that gets thrown out the equation. I for one do not believe in spending time and money in changing one item when re-doing an engine. I feel it is best to save up and do what needs to be done to get the performance where it should be. As long as the short block is in good shape, change the cam, timing chain/gears, intake, push rods, rockers, etc. You can then feel good that you'll get quite a few years of trouble free engine life.

Mike

 

Hi most of what you say is true except for the fact that THEY were on factory cars, on hi-po everything , but before they were used to mount brackets etc. I guess that you might be too young to remember that,,,,,,,,,,,,,Peace,,,,,,,,Craig :seeya

 

'461 and '462 numbers have no accessory holes. They are not strong enough to
drill holes as others have said.

The World Torquers or Protopline torkers are the aftermarket equivalent and work
with the older intake manifolds and rocker covers, unlike the cheap vortecs!

It has been shown around here that getting heads like these two aftermarkets are
cheaper overall than switching to a vortec head given the additional costs of newer
parts.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for all the advice....You all have successfully talked me out of putting on these heads. I will just be patient and wait till I have the opportunity to slide the purchase of some Edelbrock ALum heads past my wife. Some 1:6 roller rockers too while I am at it. I can sell the double humps and my existing 76 cc 487(x) heads on ebay to offset the $1000...