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I know you can get "dingleberry" hones at http://www.jlindustrial.com. The are fine for deglazing, but if you need more than that you should have it bored. When you search, all their flex hones part#'s start with "fxh".
The hone is made by Brush Research manufacturing and is called a "Flex Hone" we use them on occasion in the machine shop. The Flex Hone will keep your cylinder wall profile where a "shoe" hone will actually knock your bores out of round unless you use a torque plate while honing. I would carfully measure the pistons/bores an see if they are still in aloowable tolerances and then decide whether to hone or take it to the machine shop for a re-build. Check in a Chevy shop manual or ask a machine shop to check the wear of the engine for you, you will need to hot tank the block to properly clean it after honing anyhow. This is not a "do it at home project" if you want a long engine life, low oil consumption and good power for your efforts.
I used one last time I rebuilt my 383, does a nice job of cleaning the cyl's up. Use ATF to lubricate during deglazing and also to clean it up after, I used white paper towels and the ATF, takes about 4 or 5 passes with a clean paper towel each time, keep cleaning until the paper towel does not pick up any black, it will be red from the ATF of course bu should stay the same color after wiping the cyl.