ON topic this time.... engine identification
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
ON topic this time.... engine identification
G'day again guys - an ON topic question this time!! I don't want the shellacking I got last time... 
I have asked before how I go about identifying my block. The guy I bought the car from said that he had a 400 small block installed. The numbers that ARE on the block all mean nothing.
I'm about to pull the valley cover off so that I can change the lifters. Is there anything underneath the valley cover that will identify the block? I'm also going to pull the tappet covers off. Anything under them that will say whether they are 400 heads or not?
I don't particularly want to pull the heads off to see if the bores are siamesed...
Any help will be appreciated, thanks....
I have asked before how I go about identifying my block. The guy I bought the car from said that he had a 400 small block installed. The numbers that ARE on the block all mean nothing.
I'm about to pull the valley cover off so that I can change the lifters. Is there anything underneath the valley cover that will identify the block? I'm also going to pull the tappet covers off. Anything under them that will say whether they are 400 heads or not?
I don't particularly want to pull the heads off to see if the bores are siamesed...
Any help will be appreciated, thanks....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,047
Likes: 124
From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by saudivette
G'day again guys - an ON topic question this time!! I don't want the shellacking I got last time...
I have asked before how I go about identifying my block. The guy I bought the car from said that he had a 400 small block installed. The numbers that ARE on the block all mean nothing.
I'm about to pull the valley cover off so that I can change the lifters. Is there anything underneath the valley cover that will identify the block? I'm also going to pull the tappet covers off. Anything under them that will say whether they are 400 heads or not?
I don't particularly want to pull the heads off to see if the bores are siamesed...
Any help will be appreciated, thanks....
I have asked before how I go about identifying my block. The guy I bought the car from said that he had a 400 small block installed. The numbers that ARE on the block all mean nothing.
I'm about to pull the valley cover off so that I can change the lifters. Is there anything underneath the valley cover that will identify the block? I'm also going to pull the tappet covers off. Anything under them that will say whether they are 400 heads or not?
I don't particularly want to pull the heads off to see if the bores are siamesed...
Any help will be appreciated, thanks....
http://www.nastyz28.com/spmenu.html
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
G'day mate,
Numbers? Can't help you there so I'll go off topic slightly
If you're taking the lifters out then it'd be worth considering fitting an oil valley baffle plate. The idea of it is to stop hot oil from hitting the underside of the intake & heating it up, causing a less dense intake charge & thus losing power. Sounds great in theory, but I can't tell if mine made any difference (& it could be a losing battle driving around in Saudi!). However, what I really like about it is that it'll stop the lifters from jumping out of their bores if ever there's a top end disaster resulting in a pushrod jumping out of place. If a lifter leaves it's bore then oil pressure can drop through the floor, so the baffle plate is a good insurance against a pita top end problem destroying the entire motor.
Anyway, never mind all that old tosh, is brown sugar better for brewing than white sugar?
Numbers? Can't help you there so I'll go off topic slightly
If you're taking the lifters out then it'd be worth considering fitting an oil valley baffle plate. The idea of it is to stop hot oil from hitting the underside of the intake & heating it up, causing a less dense intake charge & thus losing power. Sounds great in theory, but I can't tell if mine made any difference (& it could be a losing battle driving around in Saudi!). However, what I really like about it is that it'll stop the lifters from jumping out of their bores if ever there's a top end disaster resulting in a pushrod jumping out of place. If a lifter leaves it's bore then oil pressure can drop through the floor, so the baffle plate is a good insurance against a pita top end problem destroying the entire motor.Anyway, never mind all that old tosh, is brown sugar better for brewing than white sugar?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Why not post the block casting numbers and stamp pad information and let the guys here have a crack at it? All Chevy blocks have identifying information that should help you figure out what you have.
Gary
Gary
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Anyone recognise these numbers...?
G'day again guys, I took your advice and wrote down all the numbers that I could see to see if anyone here could decode them.
***On the drivers side at the rear of the block is the number 86 (or maybe 98?).
***On the passengers side of the block at the rear is the number -147R (dash147R). I'm pretty sure that's it, quite hard to read the casting.
***On the front of the block on the passengers side is the number MG01800, or maybe MGO1800. It looks like the block has been decked but I can't see any evidence of a previous number.
I was told by the guy I bought the car off that it was a 400 small block as the original 350 Crossfire jobbie had finally expired. I pulled the valley cover off as I had a noisy lifter and had bought a new set to put in. I found out that the Comp Cams roller rockers weren't tightened all the way down and the one (Isuspect) was causing the noise was actually loose enough to pull the pushrod out!!! Might go a tad better now with the rockers tightened down???
***On the drivers side at the rear of the block is the number 86 (or maybe 98?).
***On the passengers side of the block at the rear is the number -147R (dash147R). I'm pretty sure that's it, quite hard to read the casting.
***On the front of the block on the passengers side is the number MG01800, or maybe MGO1800. It looks like the block has been decked but I can't see any evidence of a previous number.
I was told by the guy I bought the car off that it was a 400 small block as the original 350 Crossfire jobbie had finally expired. I pulled the valley cover off as I had a noisy lifter and had bought a new set to put in. I found out that the Comp Cams roller rockers weren't tightened all the way down and the one (Isuspect) was causing the noise was actually loose enough to pull the pushrod out!!! Might go a tad better now with the rockers tightened down???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by UKPaul
G'day mate,
Numbers? Can't help you there so I'll go off topic slightly If you're taking the lifters out then it'd be worth considering fitting an oil valley baffle plate. The idea of it is to stop hot oil from hitting the underside of the intake & heating it up, causing a less dense intake charge & thus losing power. Sounds great in theory, but I can't tell if mine made any difference (& it could be a losing battle driving around in Saudi!). However, what I really like about it is that it'll stop the lifters from jumping out of their bores if ever there's a top end disaster resulting in a pushrod jumping out of place. If a lifter leaves it's bore then oil pressure can drop through the floor, so the baffle plate is a good insurance against a pita top end problem destroying the entire motor.
Anyway, never mind all that old tosh, is brown sugar better for brewing than white sugar?
Numbers? Can't help you there so I'll go off topic slightly
If you're taking the lifters out then it'd be worth considering fitting an oil valley baffle plate. The idea of it is to stop hot oil from hitting the underside of the intake & heating it up, causing a less dense intake charge & thus losing power. Sounds great in theory, but I can't tell if mine made any difference (& it could be a losing battle driving around in Saudi!). However, what I really like about it is that it'll stop the lifters from jumping out of their bores if ever there's a top end disaster resulting in a pushrod jumping out of place. If a lifter leaves it's bore then oil pressure can drop through the floor, so the baffle plate is a good insurance against a pita top end problem destroying the entire motor.Anyway, never mind all that old tosh, is brown sugar better for brewing than white sugar?
I've never actually tried brown sugar for brewing, only fine white.... Might have to give the brown a go one day.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Oh, one other thing that I did notice that I don't remember ever seeing before is drivers side front, underneath the valley cover on the cylinder "out wall", if you know what I mean, was loads of raised "dimples" - only on that cylinder. Does that aid in identification?
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by stpman
What's the block casting number fromt the rear of the block where the trans bolts up?
Steve
Steve
The only numbers I can see from above are those that I posted above.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
Originally Posted by saudivette
I found out that the Comp Cams roller rockers weren't tightened all the way down and the one (Isuspect) was causing the noise was actually loose enough to pull the pushrod out!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,575
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From: Tuttle OK
Cruise-In VIII Veteran