HELP pt. 2--bolts for upper control arms
Thread Starter
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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From: Toronto Ontario
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HELP pt. 2--bolts for upper control arms
I replaced the old original upper control arm bolts with new ones. I don't remember the vendor I bought them from. My problem is that these new ones just spin in the hole, the teeth don't grab, and it makes trying to set camber/caster a real pain. When I removed the old ones, I hammered them out, so I am confidant that I didn't enlarge the holes, and the old bolts are long gone. Are these still sold by GM? Part #? Also, what kind of nut is supposed to be used on thses bolts? The ones that came with the bolts are those type that seem the be slightly oval to "lock" the nut on, are these correct?
Thanks to all those that helped me with my first post, I indeed had the control arms on correctly.......thank god!
Thanks to all those that helped me with my first post, I indeed had the control arms on correctly.......thank god!
Last edited by 7t2vette; Jul 18, 2004 at 12:15 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,041
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From: Wichita, KS
The nuts should indeed have an oval look to them. That is the steel self locking feature as you suspected. You might want to check with GM Parts Direct if there is no place localy to get new bolts. These bolts should not be loose in the holes.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
Race Director
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The correct bolts for the a arm have knurled ends, don't your new ones have them? Maybe you have the wrong knurl diameter bolts or your frame is rounded out in those sections (kinda weird if the old bolts had to be knocked out but I've seen rounded out frames before)
A simple solution would be to tack weld the bolts in place, only would make removal a little more difficult, but no much.
A simple solution would be to tack weld the bolts in place, only would make removal a little more difficult, but no much.
Thread Starter
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From: Toronto Ontario
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Yes, the new bolts have the knurled teeth. Maybe the teeth are not big enough. I don't really want to tack them in place if I don't have to.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: CA
You should IM Norval. He has a mod which you install larger dia wheel studs in there in a relocated position to increase caster.
It might be more work than you planned - just thought I'd give you a heads up
It might be more work than you planned - just thought I'd give you a heads up
Race Director
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 71coupe
You should IM Norval. He has a mod which you install larger dia wheel studs in there in a relocated position to increase caster.
It might be more work than you planned - just thought I'd give you a heads up
It might be more work than you planned - just thought I'd give you a heads up
My modification for caster is to enlarge the holes in the cross shafts, this leaves the stock studs alone.
Try a wheel stud.
Thread Starter
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From: Toronto Ontario
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Wheel studs eh.....hmmm sounds interesting! Are the studs the same diameter as the old bolts, or do I have to drill out the hole in the frame for them?
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I sprung for the new studs from my local Chevy dealer. $4 each is pricey, but I didn't have time to mess around trying other things. I wound up giving the extra's to the alignment shop. Norval's idea sounds like a winner.
Race Director
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sure you can, only drawback would be that they are not knurled so you'd need a wrench to hold the hex head while undoing & tightening the lock nut. If you replace it, I wouldn't use grade 8 but would prefer a 6.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
I have one of those "all the bolts for front suspension kits" some of the catalog houses sell. I went through the kit looking for those bolts and they weren't in there. They supplied hex head bolts instead. I called the gentleman who sold me the kit and he said they weren't needed and to use the hex bolt. I bought the GM bolts with the serrations and stopped using that other supplier.
Gary
Gary
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by 7t2vette
Wheel studs eh.....hmmm sounds interesting! Are the studs the same diameter as the old bolts, or do I have to drill out the hole in the frame for them?
The wheel studs are a touch shorter but they have the correct knurl, are of good quality and use the same 7/16 fine nut.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Union Ontario
I had the same problem with two of those studs when I put them in. I just put a wrench on the back and tightened them.
Norval's idea sounds better but I'm not sure if my spare studs would be long enough for the shims its going to take to align the car.
Norval's idea sounds better but I'm not sure if my spare studs would be long enough for the shims its going to take to align the car.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Fremont CA
I used Mr Gasket 7/16" long studs in my LT-1. I get 2 1/2 degrees of negative camber with them but, I also have a control arm brace between my upper control arms to get "peace of mind" with my thick shim stack. Moog control arm shafts have the large diameter shafts with nuts like you described while the stock GM parts use bolts to retain the upper control arm bushings.
Thread Starter
The ORIGINAL and bestest
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From: Toronto Ontario
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Do I have to use the oval type locking nuts on the control arm studs, or would a regular nut and lock washer work fine? I was having trouble with the studs spinning in place rather than locking, and it seems to me that those oval type nuts require a lot of torque just to even get them on, never mind torque them down.
BTW, for those following my last few posts, I do have the control arms on properly, and I bit the bullet at $4 a pop from GM for new upper control arm studs and they lock in place just fine.
BTW, for those following my last few posts, I do have the control arms on properly, and I bit the bullet at $4 a pop from GM for new upper control arm studs and they lock in place just fine.
