That's looking awesome, very nice work there (but the dipstick tube is rusty?? )

Did you paint the body before installing?

 

that makes mine look like ***

 

WOW... really nice work. How long have you been working at this? The attention to detail is awesome. Your car is going to be really sweet. I picture this in black with P02 wheel covers... hee hee

 

Neat!!....and I like your choice of new paint.

 

 

WOW, looks perfect!

 

Very nice!

 

wow that looks REALLY good, how long did that take you? and how is the interior?

 

Incredible! This looks like a first class job. This is something to be extremely proud of.

BTW, whose heads are those? How about some details on the motor?

Steve

 

Holy cow...I could use this as a model to figure out all those little things I would like to figure out without a body removal.
Can you take about 75 photos all the areas I'll need to work on from now on? Then I'll print out reference photos on my garage wall.

Where are you mufflers? Going without or slip in after body goes on for fit?

 

Great pics for a screen saver. Nice work.

Have any pics of the clutchfork/bellhousing?

 

Beautiful !

I'm in Jax too. Who did the paint & body work? And who did the engine rebuild (if appliacable?).

Regards, Mark

 

Fantastic attention to detail. I look forward to seeing the car around JAX when complete!

 

Zora would be proud of you...awsome work...show car quality!!!
Eddie

 

Yeah they are!

Go here and download irfanview. It'll resize those pics in no time, and it's a great photo viewing/editing utility.
http://www.download.com/IrfanView/30...ml?tag=lst-0-1

 

Very nice work!!! Looks familiar:

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/lemansblue68

However, I must comment that the tri-power and aluminum heads look WAY out of place for that chassis. Therefore, being the nice guy that I am, I'll gladly offer you $500 to take them off your hands and give you some spending money to go out and buy a nice set of cast iron heads and proper 4bbl manifold and carb.

You've gone to a lot of work but the results are WELL worth it!! You'll be pleased you took the effort.

 

Quite possibly the best frame-off I have ever seen. more pics please.

 

Yeah, very very nice !!
I must say, that just raised the level a notch.
Everyone doing a body-off just got a very enthusiastic boost,
or they are extremely depressed that their's will never be this nice.

Keep up the good work. Hope you drive her soon.

 

I don't know what to say, dude. That is the way to do it for sure, and it's obviously going to be gorgeous! I assume you have a BB hood? the 3x2 air cleaner won't fit under the one in the picture on the car. Can't wait to see it together...

Hans

 

Everyone
Let me start off by saying I’m overwhelmed by the response and amount of email I have gotten. Thanks everyone for your kind words. I will try to answer all the questions but if I miss someone just ask again.

I started this project in Nov 2003 with a car that had been run hard the first part of its life and had not seen the road under its own power in about 15-20 years. But, the first 15 or so years must have been very hard due to the overall condition of the body and running gear. Fiberglass was busted / bondo on all four corners, the floor board area was cracked (several places) and the battery box had a hole in it you could throw a cat through. The running gear was complete (no motor) but most of the parts I pulled off were bad. Basically what I started with should have been a parts car, not something to restore. But I just had to do this, would not take no for an answer. The Vette blood was running strong. Blind Love.

The Engine: I started out with a bare 435hp intake and a whole lot of vision. The only used parts are intake, rods, oil pan, timing cover and of course the block. Parts list consists of 427 4-bolt block (030 over), steel crank, 7/16 Dot rods, TRW L2300F 030 forged pistons, Edelbrock Alum heads 60499 (100cc Chamber), Comp Cams CB Nostalgia LS-6 Solid lift, roller tip rockers, and ARP main bearing stud kit. Dyno 2000 puts peak HP 502@6000 and Tq 508@4500. The torque band is between 2000 and 4500 @ 398-508lbs. Not sure how all that will float out in real life but I did fire the engine off in the frame to check everything out and its sounds very strong. All rotating parts were balanced. Paint is PPG Deltron

Transmission: M21 / Read End: 4:11 (both re-built)

Running Gear: I broke this frame down to the last nut and bolt and started from ground zero on the rebuild. I sent out the frame, spindles, A-Arms, rear spring, rear cross member and sway bars for powder coating. New parts consisted of calipers, rotors, brake and gas lines, fuel tank, trailing arms, drive and half shafts, E-brake parts, anything rubber, all bearings and EVERY nut and bolt is new.

Body: As I said above, the body had me thinking this was a long hard road to get down. Once I got the primer off and was looking at bare glass the damage had $$$$ all over it. I was looking at about $4000 just in glass work and another $3000-4000 in paint. What would I end up with? A nice body with a beat up floor pan and battery box. I happen to run across another 69 body at a good deal and decided to cut my loses and change directions. The current body is straight with no damage anywhere. The downside is that whoever painted it should NEVER try to do that again. What a mess, Bubba with a spray gun in his hand. I’m going to wet sand and buff and live with it a couple of years until return from Key West (last 3 years in the Navy wrapping up a 30 year career)

Interior: I have everything to put it back to Orginal condition and will get the same attention to detail are the frame got.

Well this is getting long, bottom line is if it can be restored I restore it, if not I replace it, no questions asked. Other then sending the frame out and engine machine shop work (hone, balance, bore etc etc) I have completed all the work myself. Here are some before and after pictures.