Ok, this hot-start mod that the previous owner put in is driving my CRAZY!

It didn't fix my hot start problem! Now, it won't turn over at all! But, if I bypass the Ford solenoid with a remote start button, I can crank it, and start it, and it runs, but I can't start with the key. I replaced the Ford solenoid with the appropriate replacement (77 LTD 351W Heavy Duty from Autozone), but still no luck.

How do I un-do the hot-start modification? I've got non-standard wire colors, and some strange wiring. Here is a diagram of what I see:



If I connect a remote starter to the bottom alternator and the right main connector, I can crank the car.

This just suddenly stopped working, it worked before since I bought the car about 3 years ago (though I still had hot start problem).

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
David

 

Ok, looks like the magic mysterious wire-moving fairy struck again.

I have no explanation for this, but I moved the yellow wire from the left thick post to the front left thin post, and it worked! just used a bit of logic that with any solenoid, there should be two low power wires and two high power wires. the low power controls the high power, so when I saw the two wires that went into the dash, I thought, hey, interior must be low power, they should go on thin (logically low power) terminals. Anyway, it worked, but I have no idea why things stopped working. I;m the only one who works on my car. Druken supor, I guess. ANyway, I'm off for the next problem now.

keep an eye out, She's on the block soon (for real!).

David

 

It will be interesting to see if the hot start problem is fixed now...

 

I agree, strange, but it was at the same time I added new heat shield to the starter. I really want to get rid of the ford solenoid, but just dont' have the time. Hence, the reason I'll be (sadly) selling her when I get things dependable.

If I had 10-15 hrs/week, I'd love it. But, its just so tough to find the time. I have a 6 year old, and travel for biz 40% of the week. Plus, the summer here in Vegas is tough to spend much more than a few hours. Neighbors don't appreciate a 454 with open headders at 3am (trust me!). ;-)

 

Good news to hear it repaired itself. I don't have an explination either Dave but I can tell you how my '74 starter is wired. I think you may find one of those remote solenoid terminals is the same as case ground - case is electricaly same as one terminal. And those hook-ups to the alt are very, very bubba and I'm surprised it works that way too. I'm thinking that solenoid wired to the alt should be smoking by now. You can verify continuity with low resistance on your multi-meter. And using your battery 12V power with some spare wire you can test that FORD solenoid to figure out how it makes up (closes) and opens continuity.

Any ways here's how my sb starter is wired just incase that solenoid gets burnt.

1-large red batt + wire on large term lug on starter (soleniod)
2-smaller red lead (connects to hot positve termination post on firewall with a few other red wires) connects to large term lug on starter (soleniod)
3-small purple lead (from starter switch through firewall) to small starter lug on inside (engine side, I think its labeled S) of solenoid
4-NOT NEEDED with your MSD but for your info: small yellow wire (that comes from coil +) to outside small terminal (think its labeled P or maybe R) on solenoid but trust me this wire is not needed with your MSD

So what I'm saying there is only three wires for you to connect should you decide to accept this mission. Yep just 1, 2, 3.

Sorry to hear the news about you selling though. But than again vettes should be fun and not a burden to the family. Good luck and I'm trying to control myself not to make you an offer as I still have my own shark to get running. I couldn't pay what you did for it and my offer would probaly Tee you off but I would pay cash. Well maybe I'll drop you an IM.
Good luck Dave and good night. cardo0