not sure if it's vapor lock or what but here's the symptom.

Driving the car hard, stop at a store. Come out and restart the car. Requires a lot of pedal to start. Does not want to hold an idle, must keep foot on pedal, give it some gas as I get down the block. first stoplight I get (1 block away) she's idling and acting fine. She does this from time to time and only when driven hard and when it's hot and when I turn it off and return in under 10 minutes. What ya think it is?

 

sounds like your'e on the right track

 

Right track to what?

 

choke problem may be another possibilty.

to rich when restarting warm then opens after a few minutes.

just another possibility.

 

yep.. vapor lock.

pull the carb off and check to see if the metal heat plate is still there

 

CHOKE - well I know it ain't that choke is disconnected. Not needed in Southern Cali.

Heat plate-WTFO? Eldebrock plopped on a troquer 2 nothing else there?

 

You need two things to cure your problem. Run 1/2 inch wood carb thermal spacer and If you don't have a fuel return line run one.

 

whoopsie.. thought you were still running the q jet and stocker intake

 

Found the plate. How do I run the return line? BUBBA left me with a wood screw into the lines down on the frame down under the fuel pump.

 

Classic symptom of an aluminum carburetor. Must be an Edelbrock or a Carter! You will need to at least use a thick insulating gasket or some sort of phenolic spacer if you have room.

 

yep. eldebrock

 

that it's vapor lock....

 

Hi Dave, Check your carb. after you run it hard for a while.
remove the top of the air cleaner and see if it is percolating out of the vent tubes like a coffee pot does.
Also, it may be mearly a fuel line being too close to a header pipe, over heating the fuel, so when you take off again, vapor is locked in the line..I have seen people attach a wooden closepin onto the line near the hot spot and not see the problem happen again...Be sure to color match the clothespin to the engine color.

 

I'm guessing the headers are adding enough heat to boil the fuel in the lines and not in the carb. Fuel boils somewhere below 150* and yes Cali, I remember ur beautiful new headers are ceramic coated. Maybe just wrapping the line with insulating tape will be enough of a fix. Is the fuel line touching/leaning on any hot metal?
If u want to experiment for cheap just try one of those Fram dual outlet inline fuel filters (I see'm on the shelf most auto stores). This will allow u to run flex rubber (cheap) line (from filter outlet) to that unused vapor return line to the tank. Verify return (vapor) line still connected (and open enough to flow fuel) to top of fuel tank. But I'm not sure a '68 had a vapor return line as they were vented fuel systems. Anyways using one of those filter outlets to recirc fuel back to the tank should help.
For a more permanent fix the recirc line should have a small orifice (0.040") to limit/reduce flow. I'm in the process of building a steel tube fuel line with recirc for my '74. I drilled, tapped and installed a bushing right in my carb inlet for my recirc and a press sensor. Looks ugly but I will know what fuel press is right before it goes past needle & seat while I maintain fresh fuel in my line even at idle.
Good luck and good night. cardo0

 

Stinger u must be on the same wavelength as me. We're talking the same thing only 13 min apart but at 3:00 AM. I need to keep another CF window open to check before posting. Its kind'a a waste to spend all that time typing just to get beaten to the punch? BTW nice '66. Good night. cardo0

 

One option to restoring the return line is to get a Mopar style inline filter. Install it between the pump and carb. It has one inlet and two outlets. Connect a hose from the smaller of the two outlets and snake it back down to the return line on the frame.

 

Edelbrock has 2 thin .320" insulator gaskets available. One's open #9265 & the other divided #9266.