bqce

I can pull my key out of the ignition and the car will keep running. I also have intermittent battery drain with no luck removing fuses to isolate the drain. Is it possible, or even probable, that the ignition switch will occasionally stay "on" thus drawing down the battery? Is there a way to check that?

I hate chasing electrons - I'm glad there are people that know how to do that.

bqce

Is this a hard question, did I not post enough information, or did it just get lost in the fray?

Z-man

Early C3 ignitions were made so that you could take the key out after they were started. The column mounted ignitions even have "tabs" to start and stop the car once it is unlocked. That way you could get out, lock the doors with it running and warm up the engine in cold weather. Or, you could drive the car back and forth to work without keys and only lock it up at the same time you locked up your house - when you went on vacation. (Of course, those were the days when enviros did not rule the world, gas was cheap, and thieves were not common...) I use it when jumping the car from my truck since all my keys are on one ring.

Maybe you are pulling the key out without really turning the ignition completely off? or maybe the ignition switch is worn so that it is not obvious where the off position is??

An easy way to check if the ignition is actually off would be to put a 12V light bulb between a switched wire and the ground such as the hot lead to the alternator. If it lights up, the ignition is still on...

bqce

Okay Z-man. That is one good answer. I had no idea the ignitions were ever set to do that. Thanks for the info and the hint. Uda man.

Doc Rebuild

Sir:

On a 68-72 model with a wiper door, the battery can be run down if the wiper arm parking switch, ( the rotary one) under the steering column is not turned off completely. Says so right in the GM factory service manuals. Warning: blah, blah, blah...

Geoffrey Coenen

PS From your description of the key coming out while running, I'd say the rotary switch is at best a longshot.

Jim Shea

I can't speak for the ignition switches that were on the dash (pre 1969).

But I am quite familiar with the column mounted ignition locks. They were only designed to allow you to remove the key when the lock cylinder was in the OFF-LOCK position. If the key can be removed in any other position, the key and/or the lock cylinder is worn out!

bqce

OK, Jim, so do you think if the ignition or key is worn out, it would be possible for the ignition switch to still be energized without the key being in it? I guess the best thing to do is to plug a 12V light in a switched wire and a ground as Z-man suggests to see if that's it. Thanks folks for all the help. I still hate electron chasing though.

Doc Rebuild

Z-Man

You have created Corvette Forum Internet Folklore.

You almost had me fooled, because I never did try to remove the key from any of my C3’s while they were still running. I knew they had an interlock, and the procedure to remove the key while the engine is not running, but I never did try to do it with it running.

I regret to inform you, but your steering column is screwed up if the key comes out while it’s running. I would also suspect the interlock is boogered up too. It may not even be safe.

Geoffrey Coenen

http://www.ncrs.org/forum/tech.cgi/read/140494

Z-man

Interesting...hmmm

Mine has worked from the dealership that way. The interlock works fine. The key must be in the ignition and the car in reverse to "lock" the ignition, and it must be pushed in (left) to put the ignition in the "accessory" position (turned toward you). It can't be removed while in accessory position, and the owner's manual states that the ignition must be returned to lock before the key can be removed. It doesn't say anything about removing it in the on position, so I assumed it was like my previous cars from GM.

I smell a survey....

bqce

Okay, I think I figured it out. Since I can pull the key out of the ignition, no matter what the position the key is in, I was actually putting the ignition in the ACC position on occasion without knowing it since it is so old and turns so easily. I didn't do it every time though, so that is why it only drained the battery intermittently. I did put a battery tender on the battery though, and that has been the best investment I've made in at least 2 months! Thanks for all the help folks.

Jim Shea

Sometimes the key can be worn to the point where it will just pull out of the lock cylinder. I think that a locksmith can cut a new key and may fix the problem. The locksmith must cut the key from a code and not use the old key as a master. (I think that they can figure the code even though your old key is worn.) Otherwise, the lock cylinder will need to be replaced.

BTW, the detent feel (as you rotate the lock cylinder to its various positions) takes place in the ignition switch itself. So if you do not feel any of the positions (RUN to OFF; OFF-LOCK to ACCESSORY; etc) that problem most likely means that you need a new ignition switch down on top of the column - under the dash.

Revvies

I have a C2 (1964) that exhibits these same behaviors (intermittent battery drain, key comes in/out of lock cylinder while driving, no detent feel). I just ordered a new cylinder lock and ignition switch -- I hope that solves my battery drain issue!

the aeronut

I have the same problem with my 64. Did the replacement switch fix the problem?

Revvies

aeronut,
I had three issues that were working together to destroy the battery (actually, batteries...plural) on my '64:

1) parasitic drain due to a faulty alternator capacitor << ID'd with a amp draw test
2) busted voltage regulator that was overcharging my battery and ruining it << ID'd by watching the volt gauge
3) worn out ignition switch that would too easily let me slide into ACC mode << ID'd by feel

Once these three were fixed, I've been running strong ever since!

Good luck!