Lug Nuts
#1
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Lug Nuts
As simple as it seems, I have been going through lug nuts very quickly?
I find the threads in the nuts roll after removing them once or twice. I have tried using new nuts from NAPA and Advance Auto but have the same problem. I seat them on the wheel/stud to center and snug them,then use a cross wrench to tighten,the wheel isn't loose,yet the threads roll? Went to remove a nut yesterday and the stud sheared off
Anyone else experience this?
Gary
I find the threads in the nuts roll after removing them once or twice. I have tried using new nuts from NAPA and Advance Auto but have the same problem. I seat them on the wheel/stud to center and snug them,then use a cross wrench to tighten,the wheel isn't loose,yet the threads roll? Went to remove a nut yesterday and the stud sheared off
Anyone else experience this?
Gary
Last edited by gtr1999; 08-13-2004 at 12:35 PM.
#3
Race Director
Originally Posted by Gordonm
I have had the same studs and lug nuts forever. Had them off countless times. I even use an air gun to take them on/off. Never had a problem.
#4
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Thread Starter
Me too, never had a problem until I replaced the originals last year and that started the problem.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by gtr1999
Me too, never had a problem until I replaced the originals last year and that started the problem.
SEMPER FI--1970 Dave
#6
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I had alot of problems with the stock studs and nuts. I ALWAYS use a torque wrench, always but still would strip a few at 85 foot pounds.
That was the reason I went to 1/2 in morosso studs, 3 inches long and nuts threaded all the way through. With almost 1 1/2 inches of engagement there is no way the threads with strip.
GM has upgraded the old 7/16 studs to 12 mm.
[img][/img]
That was the reason I went to 1/2 in morosso studs, 3 inches long and nuts threaded all the way through. With almost 1 1/2 inches of engagement there is no way the threads with strip.
GM has upgraded the old 7/16 studs to 12 mm.
[img][/img]
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; 08-13-2004 at 10:50 AM.
#7
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Thanks Norval,
Any tricks to getting the broken stud out? The spindle/T arm is all stock so I still have the backing plate on. I don't want to remove the spindle since the bearings are new and pressing them off could wreck them. That might be my only option though. I can remove the T arm, disassemble the spindle and rebuild it in a few hours,but it would be nice to find another way.
The studs were fine and they are original. The spindle on this car is one I used off my 69 after "Bubba" used a torch on the original spindle. The replacement lug nuts are the problem from what I see. I called ARP and they don't sell 7/16-20 nuts only 5/8" they do make a HD stud though.
Thanks,
Gary
Any tricks to getting the broken stud out? The spindle/T arm is all stock so I still have the backing plate on. I don't want to remove the spindle since the bearings are new and pressing them off could wreck them. That might be my only option though. I can remove the T arm, disassemble the spindle and rebuild it in a few hours,but it would be nice to find another way.
The studs were fine and they are original. The spindle on this car is one I used off my 69 after "Bubba" used a torch on the original spindle. The replacement lug nuts are the problem from what I see. I called ARP and they don't sell 7/16-20 nuts only 5/8" they do make a HD stud though.
Thanks,
Gary
#8
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I know the studs are replaceable without a backing plate. Without the drives side comes out at 9 oclock and on the passengers side 3 oclock. This is for 3 inch studs so you might be able to work the shorter stock studs out with the backing plate but I don't know for sure.
It seems like such alot or work just to replace one stud.
It seems like such alot or work just to replace one stud.