I dont have access to a vacuum pump so I'm looking for anther way to check if an actuator is bad. Both headlights open, drivers side takes about 3-5 seconds to open with the passenger side about 2-3 seconds after that. Do they open in sequence or does it mean the passenger side one is bad? Are they both bad . All vacuum hoses were replaced with one of those aftermarket rebuild kits. If bad is it worth getting one of those rebuild kits or should I just replace the actuators? Anybody have any experince with any of the aftermarket ones? MA motorworks seems to have the best price at about $100 each.

 

THe way to check the actuator is to disconnect the hoses and the headlight linkage. Push the actuator rod in and put your finger over the hose connection. If the seals are good, the rod should stay in. If it leaks it'll slowly extend. The $5 seal kit will easily fix that problem. Joe
PS, I can't remember which hose connection, it's the one the air comes out of when you push the rod in.

 

check the seals/boots on the actuators--beats a couple of hundred bucks for the same results

good luck

 

If the actuators open the headlights they are working OK. Everything in the vacuum system and headlight assemblies has to be PERFECT for both to open at the same time and even then they may or may not. One area I would check first is the seal around the front side of the actuators. Over time the seals in that area deteriorate and allow vacuum to escape (??!) and may change the rate at which one of the actuators operates. Another thing that makes a slight difference is the length of hose between the vacuum relay and each actuator. If they are not the same length one actuator will build enough vacuum to open the headlight before the other. Also, make sure that both headlight assemblies require the same amount of effort to open. They will open at different rates if one is stiffer than the other.

I would say just be happy that they operate at all, there are many here who would love to be in your position.

I have a vacuum troubleshooting guide that I can email you if you really want to check out the system completely.

Jay

 

I'm leaning towards a leak because when I turn on my headlights the a/c no longer blows thru the dash vents but comes out the floor. Turning on the headlights also causes my temp guage to go ballistic but thats another story.

 

Sir:

You really need a vacuum pump with a dial indicator but ............ you can try the following....

Nip one-quarter inch off the end of any hose you suspect is not tight. This will provide a hose end that is not stretched at the ends and a good seal.

At the actuator, disconnect the red hose. Connect a longer appropriate size hose and blow into it. If resistance continues to increase, the main diaphragm is probably ok, ... probably ... unless it is a pinhole, which can only be identified with a vacuum gauge having a dial gauge. If you can continued to blow and blow and resistance appears the same, the main diaphragm is shot.

Repeat procedure at the green stripe hose. If the red side holds air but the green side does not, then it is the cone shaped boot around the front rod.

If you purchase actuators, ask where they are made. The original USA ones generally last a long time ... 10-20-30 years in some cases. Even then a new boot will often bring them back to life. Considering the PIA job it is to change them,. it is to early to tell is Far West imports will measure up in value, no matter the price.

For the stem wakker, there is (or was) a fellow in Texas (Dave Radshke ?? spelling) who rebuilds original actuators. I have no personal experience with his service and believe this service caters to members of the National Camel Rider Society.

Geoffrey Coenen

PS I am a member of the Camel Riders, but have retired from active riding.

 

If you're the doc rebuild who makes the kits it was your kit I put in. Very nice product.