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The stupid shop milled the numbers off of my matching numbers engine. Am I correct that there is a way to get them restamped? Anyone do this before and have the legal documentation done?
Believe there is a procedure to document it being numbers matching before milling but since it is already done I think you are SOL. Also believe restamping is a .
The same process that the police or crime labs. use to recover the serial numbers from guns that have been ground or filed or ground off might work. I don’t know what the cost would be, but it might be an answerer to your problem. It works on the principal that the metal is compressed from the stamping process and this area extends down below the milled area surface. I believe they use acid to etch this area and the numbers become visible.
Others (a lot smarter than me) have written that using acid to raise the stamping might work, especially if you are trying to document the numbers. I doubt that you will ever raise the numbers enough that anyone will think that they were as originally stamped. Did you specify in writing with the shop before hand? If so, you might be able to get them to pay to have the pad restamped. I forget the wording of the NCRS's decision on stamp pad alterations, but IIRC, it can be done and can be accepted.
Gary
BAH! The engine has been totally destroyed. Even if the numbers remained legible, the block has been significantly altered, modified, changed, not-stock...not NCRS. Just scrap the whole car. It's not worth messing with any more.
You can get the block restamped, but you will not be able to match the broach marks from the factory.
The factory used a large mill and the swirls will be different. Judges use a magnifying scope and can tell. This is what people do that makes so many more 427/435 cars than there ever was.
If you use the acid, it might work the first time and gets harder to read each time it is done.
BAH! The engine has been totally destroyed. Even if the numbers remained legible, the block has been significantly altered, modified, changed, not-stock...not NCRS. Just scrap the whole car. It's not worth messing with any more.
That's a wee bit negative. Hopefully it was tongue-in-cheek.
Folks, I checked the user profile and discovered it's a '75 L48 -- the lowest-power engine (in original form) ever installed in a Vette. It's not like one of the few original L88 blocks hasn't just been wiped off the face of the planet.
Bottom line: Don't worry yourself to death...but DO make the machine shop sweat a little over it!
I recall reading recent NCRS literature that not only is it OK
to restamp your block - but it was acceptable to restamp
any block that was correct date code for your vette. This opens
the door to those who want to truly restore their baby - but also
leaves the door open to posers. I'm surprised there aren't more ZL-1s out there.
I also have a 75. I think as much about my car as any vette owner does or someone that collects vintage autos. Its a matter of point not money. Sorry about your bad luck hope acid works for you.
I recall reading recent NCRS literature that not only is it OK
to restamp your block - but it was acceptable to restamp
any block that was correct date code for your vette. This opens
the door to those who want to truly restore their baby - but also
leaves the door open to posers. I'm surprised there aren't more ZL-1s out there.
On NCRS website, restamping of block to restore is perfectly acceptable. Restamping of block to create more valuable car is counterfeit.
OK, stupid question. Where are the numbers that get milled off? I've heard of this happening before, but was never sure where the numbers were. Never saw any reason for milling anything other than the top of the block, cylinder walls, or bearing caps.
Gary
I recall reading recent NCRS literature that not only is it OK
to restamp your block - but it was acceptable to restamp
any block that was correct date code for your vette. This opens
the door to those who want to truly restore their baby - but also
leaves the door open to posers. I'm surprised there aren't more ZL-1s out there.
Interesting.... I think my car is going to become that missing ZL1!!!
There's a pad on the head mounting flange that is still exposed while the heads are on. I believe it's on the rear of the engine. I forget, but you can see it when installed in the car.
OK, stupid question. Where are the numbers that get milled off? I've heard of this happening before, but was never sure where the numbers were. Never saw any reason for milling anything other than the top of the block, cylinder walls, or bearing caps.
Gary
Right hand front of the block at the top, just past the end of the valve cover.
It's true that the engine is not anything special. In fact it had apparently been rebuilt before, though just as noticeably had not been milled. Also, the car was converted from an automatic to manual so the car wasn't original anyway. But, most people know enough to ask if it was a numbers matching vette...and I was able to point to the driver's side deck pad and show that the last six of the VIN numbers on the car matched six of the numbers on the engine. Now I can't do that. I'd have to say that I rebuilt the engine and the shop milled the numbers off even after I told them not to. A couple of the numbers are barely visible, but that still doesn't help much.
I could maybe get some stamps and try to freshen up the stamping, but the fonts will surely be different. I'm sure the acid thing will not do anything worth trying. I'm really not sure what to do at this point, except put the engine back together and worry about it later.
Just go ahead and re-stamp it. You've got the machine shop reciept showing the mill job, so maybe an affidavit or memo from the machine shop would help. Either way, you know it's the original block and that's worth something. The 427 in mine has no numbers and a rebuilder tag on the front of the block, so there is no telling where it came from. If I hadn't check the cylinder to verify the displacement, it could have been a 454!
It's true that the engine is not anything special. In fact it had apparently been rebuilt before, though just as noticeably had not been milled. Also, the car was converted from an automatic to manual so the car wasn't original anyway. But, most people know enough to ask if it was a numbers matching vette...and I was able to point to the driver's side deck pad and show that the last six of the VIN numbers on the car matched six of the numbers on the engine. Now I can't do that. I'd have to say that I rebuilt the engine and the shop milled the numbers off even after I told them not to. A couple of the numbers are barely visible, but that still doesn't help much.
I could maybe get some stamps and try to freshen up the stamping, but the fonts will surely be different. I'm sure the acid thing will not do anything worth trying. I'm really not sure what to do at this point, except put the engine back together and worry about it later.